Automatic gearbox problem - replace gearbox or replace car? - Page 3

Anon3 · 21st August 2014, 22:27

Or still possible, as suggested originally, low fluid.

Dragrad · 21st August 2014, 23:19

Thread moved to appropriate forum. Re-direct left in old.

Robson Rover Repair · 21st August 2014, 23:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by simc

Thanks for replying.

I'm not very knowledgeable about cars, so apologies in advance for my rudimentary explanation.

I'd taken a trip out for the day and noticed on the journey there that the car seemed to be struggling in the 30-50 mph range; I could feel a loss of power and then the noise of the engine and a slight surge as the car seemed to regain its power. I didn't notice the problem at lower/higher speeds.

This happened several times during the day. Then on the way back I'd just joined a dual carriageway when I noticed the same symptoms, only this time the car quickly lost power and seemed to cut out on me. It then regained enough power to enable me to park.

The AA guy was able to drive it a little before it lost power completely. That's when he diagnosed gear fluid issues.

I suppose the garage's reaction has put me in a situation where I'm having to consider whether to keep the car or not. I'm happy to pay for fluid changes etc. and any other work necessary, but couldn't really justify spending more than I paid for the car to fix it.

I'm going to speak to the garage tomorrow, so any thoughts about alternative explanations would be most welcome.

Diesel in tank pump has failed and the car has been running on the under bonnet one only. I'd put money on it and now the under bonnet one is tired. Under 1/4 tank of fuel also per chance?

rrobson · 22nd August 2014, 06:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anon3

Having re-read this, I'll bet the box is shot.
Reverse piston failure, no doubt.

This is fixable, but it's down to if anyone on here is willing to do it, as opposed to a regular garage.

Reverse piston would not cause this. You lose drive, engine revs freely and box goes into ep mode if it can't engage a gear. It won't cause a surging engine.

As said, it's almost certainly not a gearbox problem. But the op may be getting confused with so many ideas floating about. Let's start with the easy ones first.

Maf can be unplugged and checked easily.
Check the plenum (again costs nothing)
Relay back to us the fuel level.
Any service history suggesting when the fuel filter was last changed?

simc · 22nd August 2014, 07:09

Thanks, rrobson. Yes, you're right, I was beginning to get a little confused.

I'll follow the advice, particularly the MAF, and report back later.

The first thing for me to do is to get the car from the garage it's currently in, try some of this myself and if that doesn't work then get it to a Rover specialist!

SD1too · 22nd August 2014, 11:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by simc

The first thing for me to do is to get the car from the garage it's currently in ...

Absolutely right Simon but before you do, Reece's advice is very important:

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrobson

Relay back to us the fuel level.

Fuel pump trouble (very common on the diesel) coupled with low fuel level may be the cause of the trouble.

Simon

simc · 22nd August 2014, 12:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

Absolutely right Simon but before you do, Reece's advice is very important:

Fuel pump trouble (very common on the diesel) coupled with low fuel level may be the cause of the trouble.

Simon

Thanks, Simon.

I've got the car back on my driveway (towed it back from the garage - luckily the garage is nearby).

Bad news from the garage. I mentioned the MAF and fuel pump but they were absolutely certain it's the gearbox and wouldn't hear of any other explanations. They said the engine runs okay when idle but when you try to drive it, it soon loses power and cuts out (as happened to me on the road). Therefore, they said it can't be a fuel pump or MAF issue.

As for fuel, there's almost half a tank.

Now I'm wondering where to go from here. If the engine runs okay (until you try to drive the car for any length of time), could the problem be with a fuel pump or the MAF sensor? If people think yes, then I'll go ahead and try the MAF myself and if that doesn't work get a specialist to take a look at it.

mh007 · 22nd August 2014, 12:50

In all the 75/ZT auto gearboxes I have done (and i've done plenty now) i've never had one where it will make the engine lose power & cut out !

Just because they can rev the engine while stationary really proves nothing as the engine isn't under load (in other words, it's not pulling the car along)

When you are driving the car & it loses power, will the car 'freewheel' ? (car in Neutral or 'N')

If it does, at least you know it's not a brake binding or something similar.

With the car in 'N' when it starts losing power & 'freewheeling', can you still rev the engine ?

If the gearbox is at fault, as I said before, you would expect it to lose drive (engine revving but little or no drive) rather than bring the car to a halt or stall the engine.

If indeed it is inside the gearbox, the only thing I can think of that would cause this is the diff locking up but i'm still not convinced it's the autobox.

You could get a scan done on the gearbox for fault codes & it doesn't need a T4 specifically to do this (I use a Snap-On Solus Pro which scans the box fine) although unfortunately, the cheaper scan tools aren't suitable.

With regards to the MAF disconnection, it's a very simple thing to do & i'm sure you could do it.

The multiplug is just under the plastic engine cover on the left as looking from the drivers side front wing (you may need a small screwdriver to release the clip)

You can drive the car around with the MAF disconnected for as long as you like, it'll be fine.

Gate Keeper · 22nd August 2014, 12:56

You could ask http://www.mjsautoandmarine.co.uk/ to visit you. He is well known and flying banana has used him several times. Steer clear of the garages who will charge you an arm and a leg. there are a few members in the south east who also offer T4 diagnostics either for free or for a nominal fee.

SD1too · 22nd August 2014, 13:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by mh007

Just because they can rev the engine while stationary really proves nothing as the engine isn't under load (in other words, it's not pulling the car along)...

Simon,

Mike is right. This sounds more and more like an engine problem. Stay away from that garage and let the club's diesel experts guide you.

Simon

21st August 2014, 22:27	#21
Anon3 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Birmingham Posts: 1,392 Thanks: 199 Thanked 219 Times in 187 Posts	Or still possible, as suggested originally, low fluid. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Villa, Stella, Balti. It's Brummie latin that means, er...... Vis tester available to local V6 owners

21st August 2014, 23:19	#22
Dragrad This is my second home *None DROWNED** Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Cardigan Posts: 33,339 Thanks: 1,257 Thanked 1,664 Times in 1,081 Posts	Thread moved to appropriate forum. Re-direct left in old. __________________ Andrew Ich Dien Problem solving is... lateral thinking SEARCH FIRST ...ASK LATER...

22nd August 2014, 12:50	#28
mh007 This is my second home MG ZT260 SE, MG ZT190+, MG ZTT 160, R75 Conn SE 2.0, R75 Conn SE 2.5 X 3, R75 Club SE 1.8, P5B Coupe Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Keynsham, Bristol Posts: 4,211 Thanks: 65 Thanked 635 Times in 499 Posts	In all the 75/ZT auto gearboxes I have done (and i've done plenty now) i've never had one where it will make the engine lose power & cut out ! Just because they can rev the engine while stationary really proves nothing as the engine isn't under load (in other words, it's not pulling the car along) When you are driving the car & it loses power, will the car 'freewheel' ? (car in Neutral or 'N') If it does, at least you know it's not a brake binding or something similar. With the car in 'N' when it starts losing power & 'freewheeling', can you still rev the engine ? If the gearbox is at fault, as I said before, you would expect it to lose drive (engine revving but little or no drive) rather than bring the car to a halt or stall the engine. If indeed it is inside the gearbox, the only thing I can think of that would cause this is the diff locking up but i'm still not convinced it's the autobox. You could get a scan done on the gearbox for fault codes & it doesn't need a T4 specifically to do this (I use a Snap-On Solus Pro which scans the box fine) although unfortunately, the cheaper scan tools aren't suitable. With regards to the MAF disconnection, it's a very simple thing to do & i'm sure you could do it. The multiplug is just under the plastic engine cover on the left as looking from the drivers side front wing (you may need a small screwdriver to release the clip) You can drive the car around with the MAF disconnected for as long as you like, it'll be fine. Last edited by mh007; 22nd August 2014 at 13:02..

22nd August 2014, 07:09	#25
simc Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: London Posts: 11 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks, rrobson. Yes, you're right, I was beginning to get a little confused. I'll follow the advice, particularly the MAF, and report back later. The first thing for me to do is to get the car from the garage it's currently in, try some of this myself and if that doesn't work then get it to a Rover specialist!

22nd August 2014, 12:56	#29
Gate Keeper This is my second home 4X4 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Nairobi Posts: 20,084 Thanks: 8,286 Thanked 7,017 Times in 4,160 Posts	You could ask http://www.mjsautoandmarine.co.uk/ to visit you. He is well known and flying banana has used him several times. Steer clear of the garages who will charge you an arm and a leg. there are a few members in the south east who also offer T4 diagnostics either for free or for a nominal fee.