Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 17th August 2012, 18:11   #1
SteveT
Avid contributor
 
None at the moment

Join Date: May 2012
Location: N/A
Posts: 100
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Bit of a grump - how to test my new ITP - RESOLVED

I'm in a bit of a grump because I've just changed both pumps on my diesel 75 and I'm not convinced the new ITP is working. I'm also not convinced the old one wasn't working.

This arose because I reported to you guys that my car started to stutter above 4000rpm and then suddenly cut out, refusing to restart. The fuel level was low and we suspected a failed ITP. I put some diesel in the tank and the car started, so that seems to confirm the theory.

So, I took my old ITP out and replaced it. I connected a 12V battery across the terminals of the old one and it ran. That's worrying. (The new one ran, too.) Made me think the old ITP might have been OK. I also replaced the UBP, which was working but now both are brand new and I'm happy about having two new pumps.

Here is why I'm grumpy: it still won't rev over 4000rpm when the throttle is floored - it hesitates and misfires. Also, I can't hear the ITP running.

Here's my question: is there any way to test that the ITP is actually running and pumping diesel? For instance, I thought about removing the electrical connector from the UBP, disconnecting the output pipe from the filter, and switching on the ignition.

Does the ITP have enough heft to push the diesel through the UBP and filter?

Or is there any other way I can test the ITP?

Thanks,

Steve

Last edited by SteveT; 18th August 2012 at 19:29..
SteveT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th August 2012, 18:22   #2
FrenchMike
This is my second home
 
FrenchMike's Avatar
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Avignon
Posts: 4,466
Thanks: 94
Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts
Default

You have an electric /pressure test :

BP test.jpg

More accurate than listening at the filler cap...

Mike
FrenchMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th August 2012, 18:33   #3
SteveT
Avid contributor
 
None at the moment

Join Date: May 2012
Location: N/A
Posts: 100
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Will that test the ITP, though? Or will the UBP manage that pressure on its own?

Steve
SteveT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th August 2012, 18:43   #4
FrenchMike
This is my second home
 
FrenchMike's Avatar
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Avignon
Posts: 4,466
Thanks: 94
Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveT View Post
Will that test the ITP, though? Or will the UBP manage that pressure on its own?

Steve
That tests the final low pressure including UBP,UBP etc..

In the same idea ,you can test the final High Pressure on the common rail:

HP test.jpg

Good luck

Mike
FrenchMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th August 2012, 18:47   #5
SteveT
Avid contributor
 
None at the moment

Join Date: May 2012
Location: N/A
Posts: 100
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

OK, thanks, Mike.

I'm sorry: I've probably misunderstood your point. I think the UBP will generate that pressure all on its own, regardless of whether the ITP is running or not. So my thinking goes that the pressure test won't tell me whether the ITP is working.

Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks,

Steve
SteveT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th August 2012, 18:50   #6
FrenchMike
This is my second home
 
FrenchMike's Avatar
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Avignon
Posts: 4,466
Thanks: 94
Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveT View Post
OK, thanks, Mike.

I'm sorry: I've probably misunderstood your point. I think the UBP will generate that pressure all on its own, regardless of whether the ITP is running or not. So my thinking goes that the pressure test won't tell me whether the ITP is working.

Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks,

Steve
Well,the simplest way is listening at the filler cap .
Key position 2 (before starting) during 1 minute or so ...

But if the 4 volts value is good ,then everything is OK !
(this information is directly sent to the ECM)

Last edited by FrenchMike; 17th August 2012 at 18:57..
FrenchMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th August 2012, 19:29   #7
Mike Noc
This is my second home
 
Mike Noc's Avatar
 
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4.

Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 11,550
Thanks: 3,470
Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveT View Post
OK, thanks, Mike.

I'm sorry: I've probably misunderstood your point. I think the UBP will generate that pressure all on its own, regardless of whether the ITP is running or not. So my thinking goes that the pressure test won't tell me whether the ITP is working.

Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks,

Steve
Steve you're spot on - the car will run happily on just the UBP as long as there is plenty of fuel in the tank.

So as Mike says listen for the ITP, or let the tank go down to the fuel low level light before filling up and if it doesn't conk out before then the ITP is working as it should.

Mike
Mike Noc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th August 2012, 23:57   #8
SteveT
Avid contributor
 
None at the moment

Join Date: May 2012
Location: N/A
Posts: 100
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

OK, thanks. I'm going to lift the back seat as there's no obvious noise from the filler.

If it's working, then that loss of power/hesitation/misfire at 4000rpm must be another fault.

I'll have a play tomorrow and will report back if there's anything interesting to say.

Thanks again,

Steve
SteveT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th August 2012, 08:31   #9
chrissyboy
This is my second home
 
lovely little ford focus.

Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: East Dulwich
Posts: 7,877
Thanks: 2
Thanked 82 Times in 68 Posts
Default

when i used to be at a garage we used to test the pumps vai the fuse .we used to attach a fuse loop into where the fuse for the pump went in the fuse box and using a volage clamp clamp the loop and connect to a pico ,looking at the readings and the wave forms you can tell if a pump is working 100%,just like the range rover we did this week ,it used to cut out when driving and the revs over 300. by doing the above it showed us the pump was weak and couldnt supply the extra fuel needed.. more speed = more fuel .changed pump and all was well.
__________________
[ I'm really confused. -I keep dreaming I'm an insomniac
chrissyboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th August 2012, 08:53   #10
HarryM1BYT
This is my second home
 
HarryM1BYT's Avatar
 
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Leeds
Posts: 17,273
Thanks: 2,160
Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts
Default

Can the pipe between ITP and UBP simply not be disconnected at the UBP to see if there is flow from the ITP?
__________________
Harry

How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.
HarryM1BYT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 23:51.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd