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26th August 2019, 15:37 | #11 |
Posted a thing or two
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Very easy to spot and trace as it's the only electrical cable in the area. You should find the connector (light blue colour) very close to the hydramount on a diesel car............haven't got a clue where it is on the petrol versions
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26th August 2019, 15:40 | #12 | |
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Mine's a tractor
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30th June 2020, 18:24 | #13 |
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Well, I thought people might be interested in an update. Sort of. Can’t BELIEVE it’s nearly a year ago… the problem gradually went away over a week or so after that, never came back, so of course I didn’t get anything done.
A couple of weeks ago, though, the brake pedal started to kind of rattle slightly when depressed – only at slow speeds, really. So I decided to get the sensor replaced – our local Rover guy has been out of action for a while, so I took her to my other trusted garage. His diagnostics confirmed that the front o/s sensor was dodgy, so he replaced it. Unfortunately, no better… I’ll be taking it to Mark when he has some time, but in the meantime, does anybody have any thoughts? The rattle (which does feel a bit like the ABS kind of “flickering”, but pretty gently, and with no wheel locking or anything) *sounds* like it’s that front o/s wheel. Do you think it is still something about the ABS, or does anything more mundane and mechanical suggest itself? The disks and pads were replaced maybe 15000 miles ago, and I drive in a very relaxed fashion these days. Thanks
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30th June 2020, 18:43 | #14 | ||
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I presume you still have your speedo working now with the new front OS sensor change ? if so then it's most likely going to be one of the other sensors or bearing. T4 will pin point it for you, but my bet is on the OS rear sensor/bearing have the back plates on your car ever been changed ? if not it could be rust of one of those that is causing the trouble.
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30th June 2020, 18:46 | #15 |
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Slow speed activation is generally the rear wheels, mine was. Usually caused by rusty rear brake shields - flakes of rust contaminate the sensors / magnetic strip on the bearings.
Mine took me a fair while to get my attention as it sometimes went away, and I was pretty sure it was the right rear playing up, sometime later Toaf told me it was the opposite side. New brake shields from DMGRS and cleaned magnetic strips cleared the problem. Regards |
30th June 2020, 18:57 | #16 |
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Thanks guys. Steve - the speedo started working again not long after I started this post, and never went funny again - that's why I left things alone.
Maybe I should dig my TOAF out, and see if it shows another sensor up? I can't remember exactly what Mark said when he did my brakes a couple of years ago, but I *think* the backplates were the only things not replaced, as they were surprisingly OK
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30th June 2020, 19:13 | #17 |
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Okily dokily... dug my TOAF out, but in the ABS module, it just had the failure logged for front o/s.
I'm guessing the mechanic didn't clear that after fitting the new sensor, but I'll check it again after driving tomorrow...
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30th June 2020, 21:08 | #18 |
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Two things come to mind. It still could be a problem with the front offside wheel; if the magnetic reluctor in the bearing is slightly damaged, or there are any flakes of rust on it then it can cause a problem at slow speeds and the speedometer will still read OK.
And secondly if one of the sensors misses the odd magnetic segment, then it doesn't always show as a fault, as that is exactly what happens when a wheel starts to lock up. Sometimes you get a plausibility fault though. Getting a voltmeter out and testing the voltage changes between each segment as you slowly rotate the wheel is a bit time consuming but works well enough. |
30th June 2020, 21:25 | #19 | |
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Thanks Mike... so, for the uninitiated, do I take the wheel off, connect the meter to the ABS sensor, then rotate it? I have plenty of time...
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30th June 2020, 22:49 | #20 | |
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Hi Roger. You should find that the club as two that can be borrowed to use https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=260420
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