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Old 21st April 2020, 05:53   #11
Brunty
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Just had both sets of backplates fitted to copperleaf, now works a treat, well worth doing.
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Old 21st April 2020, 09:07   #12
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Thanks everyone for some very useful information. If it is a corroded backplate, then a nice shiny new one fully kitted looks very attractive.
Meanwhile, investigations will continue.
I'll give an update when I've got somewhere.
Thanks,
Malc
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Old 21st April 2020, 13:43   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMGRS View Post
Usually the backplates are to blame - the pins pull through, and allow the shoes to move around and out of position.

We have complete backplates containing shoes and all fixings etc - they're quite expensive, but are a good way to resolve the issue for the long-term.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/r75...0290-smn000140

If you only need one side, drop me a PM and I can price one up for you if this is indeed the cause.
I can heartily recommend doing exactly this, set up correctly it utterly transforms the handbrake! (And the bits DMGRS supply are good quality!)

Braking components should always be replaced in pairs though-don’t just do one set of shoes, do both.
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Old 21st April 2020, 14:08   #14
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I've just replaced both backplate assemblies as well , mainly due to boredom in the lockdown . Again , very happy with the sets from DMGRS. Our two cars are beginning to wonder what on earth is coming next ……...
The 75 began to sound its alarm the other day when it saw me gazing at its roof with a hacksaw in my hand !
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Old 21st April 2020, 14:54   #15
Sdeh
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Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
It should look like this Thomas



The wheelbearing is removed for clarity

Brian

The backplate has extreme corrosion so I went to the local mg rover breaker and got one as it’s going for its MOT again in a few days to hopefully pass this the second try


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Old 21st April 2020, 15:19   #16
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What was the condition of the shoes and adjusters like? As well as the inner surface of the “drum” inside the brake disc? Quite often these need doing, too.

To add to the woes, the handbrake shoes often delaminate & the drum corrodes, due to the handbrake only ever being applied whilst stationary (somewhat predictably, really!), meaning the shoes never get a chance to deglaze their corresponding friction surfaces.
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Old 21st April 2020, 15:21   #17
Sdeh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itcaptainslow View Post
What was the condition of the shoes and adjusters like? As well as the inner surface of the “drum” inside the brake disc? Quite often these need doing, too.

To add to the woes, the handbrake shoes often delaminate & the drum corrodes, due to the handbrake only ever being applied whilst stationary (somewhat predictably, really!), meaning the shoes never get a chance to deglaze their corresponding friction surfaces.

Not that bad it was just the backplate really the good thing with my latest one compared to the last ones is what ever the car has needed its had


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Old 21st April 2020, 15:29   #18
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I've read that a 6 sided 'walled' spanner is preferable (hexagon) and a 1/2" AF (across flats) is the size, that's 12.7mm, a little tighter than a 13mm. I use a 1/2" AF ratcheting spanner and tap it around until the bolt is loose.

Last edited by Heddy; 21st April 2020 at 15:44.. Reason: more info
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Old 21st April 2020, 15:59   #19
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"I use a 1/2" AF ratcheting spanner and tap it around"


I've got one of those but don't you risk damaging the ratchet mechanism?
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Old 21st April 2020, 16:39   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
A set of these will help you remove the caliper bolts, shallow ones are the best.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11x-Locki...MAAOSwMWdeXMhc
These - are worth their weight in Gold. Just had the exact same issue with mine and bought a set of these on Amazon - came straight off although it is tight in there
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