Engine cuts off on higher ravs

[Adamsphotoart]

It happened already 3 times !

When I try to accelerate hard(er), say above 3k ravs and I keep it for a moment the engine cuts off. I hear some kind of phuff and the engine cuts off, then pressing the acceleration pedal doesn't help. The only remedy is to quickly turn off and then on the ignition key, the engine starts again and I can drive.

The above situation happens when I try to be a bit more aggressive with the acceleration but when I drive gently it does not happen.

Any idea what is it?

The car is Rover 75 diesel (220 k miles), remap to 160 hp plus the egr is bypassed (blank).

Thanks a lot for your help.

Adam

[COLVERT]

It's possible for the crank shaft sensor to begin to fail in this manner at high revs.

[grivas]

Originally Posted by Adamsphotoart

It happened already 3 times !

When I try to accelerate hard(er), say above 3k ravs and I keep it for a moment the engine cuts off. I hear some kind of phuff and the engine cuts off, then pressing the acceleration pedal doesn't help. The only remedy is to quickly turn off and then on the ignition key, the engine starts again and I can drive.

The above situation happens when I try to be a bit more aggressive with the acceleration but when I drive gently it does not happen.

Any idea what is it?

The car is Rover 75 diesel (220 k miles), remap to 160 hp plus the egr is bypassed (blank).

Thanks a lot for your help.

Adam

It could be fuel delivery/pressure related, how many low pressure fuel pumps does the car have, if there is an under the bonnet one does it make any unusual noises, when was the last time the fuel filter changed?

[Adamsphotoart]

Thank you so this would be the one?
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...-nsc100880-oem

Is it easy to locate and replace?

Also, and it might be my pure guess, which I forgot to mention... The high pressure fuel pump was leaking a bit last winter and I had a "quick" fix done on it, so it does not leak any more but I was advised to replace/refurbish the pump at some point. Could it be the high pressure injection pump getting faulty?

cheers,

Adam

[Adamsphotoart]

Originally Posted by grivas

It could be fuel delivery/pressure related, how many low pressure fuel pumps does the car have, if there is an under the bonnet one does it make any unusual noises, when was the last time the fuel filter changed?

The fuel filter was replaced 2 weeks ago.

I am not sure how many low pressure fuel pump are on this car, I guess one is in the tank and one is near the filer? I can hear any noise... But could it be the high pressure pump getting faulty?

[Arctic]

Hi Adam.
With the car stationary will the car rev to 3k and above with out cutting out, if so then do a leak back test on the injectors, one or more could be leaking and when you call for power the car cuts out.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312803298...3ABFBM7N7MuJtf

[Yorkshire GOC]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Adam.
With the car stationary will the car rev to 3k and above with out cutting out, if so then do a leak back test on the injectors, one or more could be leaking and when you call for power the car cuts out.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312803298...3ABFBM7N7MuJtf

You beat me to it

[Adamsphotoart]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Adam.
With the car stationary will the car rev to 3k and above with out cutting out, if so then do a leak back test on the injectors, one or more could be leaking and when you call for power the car cuts out.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312803298...3ABFBM7N7MuJtf

Great, thanks a lot. I just went to test it:

the car was stationary (cold) and I could rav it up to 4.5 k (up to the red limit) and I could keep it for a while and the engine didn't cut out. I tried it several times and the engine didn't cut out even once... then I went to look at the high pressure fuel pump and yes, it was wet at the top ...

Does it mean the high pressure pump needs to be replaced to fix the problem?

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Adamsphotoart

Great, thanks a lot. I just went to test it:

the car was stationary (cold) and I could rav it up to 4.5 k (up to the red limit) and I could keep it for a while and the engine didn't cut out. I tried it several times and the engine didn't cut out even once...

It could do but i would do the leak back test first, being wet is not good at any stage.

What was the quick fix on HPFP did you not have the kit fitted ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152054575...4AAOSwIzNXPf-p

What i used on the three i refurbished a few months back.

1

2

3

4

Also do the regulator .
5

6

you can find HPFP on the bay which you could refurbish, and still have your car running until you swap it out.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124960894...gAAOSwb0phbhxT

Then there is the refurbished ones already done
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284290261...sAAOSw2SVff0cg

[Adamsphotoart]

Originally Posted by Arctic

It could do but i would do the leak back test first, being wet is not good at any stage.

What was the quick fix on HPFP did you not have the kit fitted ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152054575...4AAOSwIzNXPf-p

What i used on the three i refurbished a few months back.

1

2

3

4

Also do the regulator .
5

6

you can find HPFP on the bay which you could refurbish, and still have your car running until you swap it out.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124960894...gAAOSwb0phbhxT

Then there is the refurbished ones already done
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284290261...sAAOSw2SVff0cg

Thank you very much for the information, its very useful.

"The leak back test first", could you confirm how to do it? Is it something I can do it myself or do I need some sort of special tools etc?

"The quick fix" I am not 100% sure what was done. It was a mechanic back in Poland (where I am originally from) who planned to replace the HPFP but then he said that the new/refurbished HPFP will not arrive in less than x days, and I couldn't wait as I needed to go back to the UK. So he "fixed" it somehow so it stopped leaking and I could drive. I am not sure what he did but I have an impression he didn't take HPFP fully out, just probably removed the top cover of it and replaced something (seals??) ... but he advised me to replace the HPFP at some point as the fix will not last long... I also remember him saying something among the lines that the two metal parts of the HPFP are swollen (rusted) and that's why its leaking... but I am not sure what he actually meant.

So please confirm, to fully/correctly refurbish the HPFP is it enough to purchase that repair kit and replace all these part? If yes, I guess I could do it but do you have any idea of what "two metal parts of the HPFP being swollen (rusted)" he talked about?

Also, how easy/difficult is it to swap the HPFP ? I believe you have to block the engine somehow...

Please advise.

thanks a lot

Adam