Clutch Change Looming - Page 2

macafee2 · 2nd November 2021, 20:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSS

I base my comment on the fact that we have had so many people suffering premature clutch failures on the forum over the years. I have tended to do the smaller (easier!) jobs and the 75's myself and have always taken the cars to the likes of Terry (tsauto) or Andy (trikey) since he moved to Norfolk. Previously I used BS Motors for a clutch change on a 75 some years ago. My cars just do not suffer from premature failure of clutch components etc. I put this down to the expertise/experience and the care taken during fitting by the aforementioned specialists.

I would go further and make the recommendation only to use clutch parts recommended by the specialists.

I take the point about DIY, but would also categorize such people between specialists/experts and not so!

I think I can take the last line as a complement as I changed my own clutch 3 or 4 years ago. Not a job I would like to do again but probably would once I get over the sick feeling.

macafee2

trikey · 2nd November 2021, 20:32

Rarely will you get a 75 clutch plate to slip, its always the salve that fails way before the plate.

My diesel was on 200k on the original clutch when the slave failed.

bsafly · 2nd November 2021, 20:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey

Rarely will you get a 75 clutch plate to slip, its always the salve that fails way before the plate.

The clutch on my diesel tourer started to slip in 4th and 5th when coming on boost just after I bought it at 121,000 miles (car had history of extensive towing).
When stripped down, the centre plate linings were almost down to the rivets (looked like the original clutch was still fitted).
Changed everything except the DMF which was in well within spec and showed very little burning or high spots.
There were no signs of impending slave failure, but I can't say how much longer it would have lasted for if it hadn't have been changed when the clutch was replaced. (Wasn't worth the risk).

planenut · 2nd November 2021, 21:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey

Rarely will you get a 75 clutch plate to slip, its always the salve that fails way before the plate.

My diesel was on 200k on the original clutch when the slave failed.

Sadly I have experienced it, with a 1.8 and a 1.8T.

Workhorse · 5th November 2021, 11:12

Sorry if this is a really basic question - is the correct clutch fluid for a CDti just standard dot 4? Does the brand make any difference?

tigers1941 · 5th November 2021, 12:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Workhorse

Hello all, the clutch on my 2004 CDTI is getting to a point where the clutch is so heavy and the bite point so low that it's getting borderline unusable. It's approaching 110,000 miles and I think it did a fair amount of towing with the previous owner so I'd imagine a new clutch is about due.

I know it's not a cheap job, especially if the DMF needs doing at the same time, but is anyone able to give a rough indication of how much I might be looking at in terms of cost?

Is it a job worth taking it to a specialist for, and if so could someone recommend anywhere in Warwickshire?

Many thanks!

Had mine done at Marshalls Performance Motors, Buton on Trent, they have a traders page on here and give you clutch replacement quotes for members, I could not fault them.

COLVERT · 5th November 2021, 17:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Workhorse

Sorry if this is a really basic question - is the correct clutch fluid for a CDti just standard dot 4? Does the brand make any difference?

Yes and no,---

Workhorse · 15th November 2021, 21:04

Finally got round to bleeding the clutch today, reasonably straightforward job with the exception of removing the top of the reservoir which was on tight as well as hard up against the bulkhead insulation with very little room to get any purchase on it.

The clutch is definitely much better and doesn't feel like it's on the way out anymore which is a great result. I'd say it's still at the heavier end of the scale compared to other vehicles, although still acceptable, but I might try putting a bit more fresh fluid through it to make sure it's all new now that I know what I'm doing.

MSS · 15th November 2021, 21:06

A wide flat bladed screwdriver make removing the top easier.

planenut · 16th November 2021, 05:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSS

A wide flat bladed screwdriver make removing the top easier.

Yes, as suggested elsewhere, lining up that screwdriver and tap the cap round using a mallet.

Well done for dealing with it, how are the knuckles?

2nd November 2021, 20:32	#12
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,763 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	Rarely will you get a 75 clutch plate to slip, its always the salve that fails way before the plate. My diesel was on 200k on the original clutch when the slave failed. __________________ Lest we forget..

5th November 2021, 11:12	#15
Workhorse Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: West Midlands Posts: 44 Thanks: 0 Thanked 14 Times in 8 Posts	Sorry if this is a really basic question - is the correct clutch fluid for a CDti just standard dot 4? Does the brand make any difference?

15th November 2021, 21:04	#18
Workhorse Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: West Midlands Posts: 44 Thanks: 0 Thanked 14 Times in 8 Posts	Finally got round to bleeding the clutch today, reasonably straightforward job with the exception of removing the top of the reservoir which was on tight as well as hard up against the bulkhead insulation with very little room to get any purchase on it. The clutch is definitely much better and doesn't feel like it's on the way out anymore which is a great result. I'd say it's still at the heavier end of the scale compared to other vehicles, although still acceptable, but I might try putting a bit more fresh fluid through it to make sure it's all new now that I know what I'm doing.

15th November 2021, 21:06	#19
MSS This is my second home Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7,083 Thanks: 283 Thanked 624 Times in 440 Posts	A wide flat bladed screwdriver make removing the top easier.