Clutch Change Looming - Page 3

Workhorse · 16th November 2021, 15:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by planenut

Yes, as suggested elsewhere, lining up that screwdriver and tap the cap round using a mallet.

Well done for dealing with it, how are the knuckles?

Yep I ended up using a flat head screwdriver to dislodge it. Knuckles aren't too bad, but then again I grew up tinkering with old minis which I think gives a certain resilience to skinned knuckles!

Costa Fortuna · 17th November 2021, 11:53

A heavy clutch is usually a tired clutch, sadly.

MSS · 18th November 2021, 23:01

If a car has done over 70k miles and the clutch is heavy or the biting point incorrect, my approach would be to get a specialist to replace with a 3-part kit plus the master cylinder, guide tube etc. If quality parts are used and the work is done by someone who is experienced and takes care, the new clutch should outlast the car.

The clutch was heavy on our CDT and since being replaced by Andy (trilkey), it has been a pleasure to use. So the car has had a three piece kit, guide tube+seal o'ring and master cylinder.

Workhorse · 4th August 2022, 09:49

Just bringing this topic up again as I think I'm definitely at a point where a new clutch may be needed. I've bled it again since I started this topic and although that made it a bit better again it's definitely very heavy still and quite unpleasant in traffic.

If I have the clutch (and potentially DMF) replaced I want it to last, so I have a couple of questions:

- should the entire system including slave and master cylinder be replaced at the same time?
- are there any particular types/brands of components that are best? Don't mind paying a bit more if it'll last longer!
- is there a preferable supplier of these parts?

Many thanks!

MSS · 4th August 2022, 10:11

You will get a few different answers from members based on their experience and approach to car. My approach is to take the view that I will keep the car long-term. This way even if I sell the car, I will know that I did not knowingly pass on anything that I would not have lived with myself.

At 110k miles, I would get a 3-piece LUK kit which consists of the two plates and slave. I would also get a master cylinder, guide tube and O'ring. I would allow whoever is replacing the clutch to check the DMF and decide whether it should be replaced. Alternatively, do what I actually did which was to buy a DMF and associated fitting bolts and give it to mechanic so that it is there to be fitted if needed.

This is exactly the approach I took with our CDT. See https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=298656

4th August 2022, 10:11	#25
MSS This is my second home Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7,083 Thanks: 283 Thanked 624 Times in 440 Posts	You will get a few different answers from members based on their experience and approach to car. My approach is to take the view that I will keep the car long-term. This way even if I sell the car, I will know that I did not knowingly pass on anything that I would not have lived with myself. At 110k miles, I would get a 3-piece LUK kit which consists of the two plates and slave. I would also get a master cylinder, guide tube and O'ring. I would allow whoever is replacing the clutch to check the DMF and decide whether it should be replaced. Alternatively, do what I actually did which was to buy a DMF and associated fitting bolts and give it to mechanic so that it is there to be fitted if needed. This is exactly the approach I took with our CDT. See https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=298656 __________________ Member of the Peasant Underdog Class, Grade 1

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17th November 2021, 11:53	#22
Costa Fortuna Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: POOLE Posts: 121 Thanks: 24 Thanked 44 Times in 27 Posts	A heavy clutch is usually a tired clutch, sadly.

18th November 2021, 23:01	#23
MSS This is my second home Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7,083 Thanks: 283 Thanked 624 Times in 440 Posts	If a car has done over 70k miles and the clutch is heavy or the biting point incorrect, my approach would be to get a specialist to replace with a 3-part kit plus the master cylinder, guide tube etc. If quality parts are used and the work is done by someone who is experienced and takes care, the new clutch should outlast the car. The clutch was heavy on our CDT and since being replaced by Andy (trilkey), it has been a pleasure to use. So the car has had a three piece kit, guide tube+seal o'ring and master cylinder.

4th August 2022, 09:49	#24
Workhorse Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: West Midlands Posts: 44 Thanks: 0 Thanked 14 Times in 8 Posts	Just bringing this topic up again as I think I'm definitely at a point where a new clutch may be needed. I've bled it again since I started this topic and although that made it a bit better again it's definitely very heavy still and quite unpleasant in traffic. If I have the clutch (and potentially DMF) replaced I want it to last, so I have a couple of questions: - should the entire system including slave and master cylinder be replaced at the same time? - are there any particular types/brands of components that are best? Don't mind paying a bit more if it'll last longer! - is there a preferable supplier of these parts? Many thanks!