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#1 |
Relax, it's a Rover.
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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![]() There are many ways of separating the lower arm outer balljoint from the hub but I've used this one for years. Just put a spacer in between the hub and the balljoint and use a screwdriver to push the balljoint shaft down wedging the screwdriver against the raised edge on the hub.
![]() Doesn't need much force as you are pushing directly down on the shaft, it pretty much falls out. Turned down a few different thickness spacers from some scrap so I can add them as the shaft drops. ![]() |
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#2 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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![]() Quote:
Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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#3 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Jan 2018
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![]() I've always had no difficulty using a wedged ball joint splitter although I accept it has to go between the gaiter and the hub clamp, risking the integrity of the gaiter (not a problem if you're changing the lower arm).
But that's not taking anything away from your tip. ![]() Dougie.
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Club SE CDT Auto Tourer 160 • Built 10/05/2002 @07:37 hrs: Registered 18/01/2003 • 12,260/28,333 tourers • 97/272 Copperleaf red tourer (CDX) • 140,000 miles |
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#4 | |
Relax, it's a Rover.
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hampshire
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![]() Quote:
The idea is that whatever you use, direct downward force on the shaft easily pushes it out. |
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#5 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
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![]() Quote:
When I was faced with this task in the Spring I discovered that the angle of the hub is critical. I seem to remember that although the top of the hub naturally falls inwards, this force needs to be counteracted manually which is not easy as the thing is mightily heavy! At the same time, the springiness of the lower arm needs to be overcome by a firm tap. I didn't have enough hands for this working on the garage floor but when a fellow car maintenance enthusiast answered my call it dropped out in ten seconds! ![]() Next time I'll try your tip. ![]() Simon
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#6 |
Avid contributor
MG ZT-T CDTi Join Date: Sep 2020
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![]() never had a problem with this joint its the devil main ball joint into the subframe that is my tormentor. On the outer ball joint i have found disconnecting the tie rod and pushing the hub in and wiggling the arm whilst pulling down a bit allows the joint to drop out but i have had them off a few times now.
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ZT-T Mk2 Jobs to do: Renew auxiliary drive belt # Replace driver door lock actuator # Repair driver seat manual controls or replace seat # Refurbish wheels |
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#7 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2010
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![]() I use this method with hexagon nuts as spacers. When the first nut goes flush just add another. I think it usually requires three nuts to push it all the way out.
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