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19th June 2019, 10:06 | #1 |
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Dropping the exhaust - advice please
How far can the exhaust be dropped at the rear?
I'm going to swap my rear subframe for a new one, so I'm trying to figure out the best way of doing it. These bits will also be swapped for new ones at the same time as the subframe:
Last edited by Blink; 20th June 2019 at 13:08.. |
19th June 2019, 10:22 | #2 |
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Removing the whole exhaust on a diesel is not to bad a job except for the rear hangers. To avoid strain on the flexi pipe it may be better to remove the whole lot.
Is there a joint anywhere that you can split so you only remove the rear section? Mind you this may be easier said then done macafee2 |
19th June 2019, 10:51 | #3 |
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It's the original 2002 factory exhaust on a petrol saloon.
I've been out to have a look and I can't see any joints at all - at least nothing that looks like a 'normal' joint with a clamp. According to Rimmers page there should be a joint right behind the cat but I can't see one on mine. I can't see a flexi-pipe either. |
19th June 2019, 11:58 | #4 | |
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Quote:
TC |
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19th June 2019, 12:14 | #5 | |
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Quote:
I've got a new exhaust centre section (Klarius) and a rear box (Bosal). The centre has two silencers and looks like #8 here, complete with hooks. The Bosal looks like #10 without the 'ribbing'. The Klarius and Bosal fit together ok, so it's a case of joining the forward end of the Klarius onto the pipe coming out of the rear end of the cat (assuming there's an appropriate cutting point). Last edited by Blink; 19th June 2019 at 13:02.. |
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19th June 2019, 13:13 | #6 | |
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19th June 2019, 13:54 | #7 |
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19th June 2019, 19:44 | #8 | |
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Forget the old adage about measuring twice and cutting once - I measured three or four times just to be on the safe side. |
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20th June 2019, 14:56 | #9 |
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As Jim has mentioned, removal of the tunnel braces will allow the exhaust to drop to the ground, but as mentioned also previously, support around the flexi.
As I was doing mine in the street over a 5 day period, I also supported it on its length using bungee cords. Once lowered, you can move the pipe around a fair bit to allow easier removal of the subframe. Be careful when lowering it though, it is heavier than it appears, but is quite obvious once underneath. Whilst you are under preparing for the task, spray all nuts and bolts with some proper penetrating fluid and go over them with a wire brush too. It all should be pretty obvious once under and looking at the components. Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk
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20th June 2019, 15:05 | #10 |
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Where is the flexi-pipe Alan? I can't see it without crawling underneath (which I can't do until the support sleepers arrive).
Is there a penetrating fluid you'd recommend? I've only got WD40 at the moment. |
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