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13th September 2020, 14:55 | #21 | |
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24th September 2020, 10:22 | #22 | |
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1st pic - the top one is an ordinary fitting, bottom one is the stainless SSBU10M from carbuilder. There's quite a difference. I don't think carbuilder have any 'short' ones in stainless. Hoses are Delphi LH0461 btw. (Measurements are +/- 0.5mm ) |
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24th September 2020, 15:18 | #23 |
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If you paint your finished joints with Hammerite (esp. if you use their metal primer first), they'll be good for donkey's years.
TC |
24th September 2020, 17:10 | #24 | |
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And when the paint has hardened you can dab Waxoyl all over it for even greater protection. Simon
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25th September 2020, 09:37 | #25 | ||
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*Actually, it's called Hammerite Direct to Rust Metal. I'm not sure if that means it'll only stick to rust (as opposed to bare new metal). Btw, the protector springs on the original factory hoses are coated** and the new springs are bare metal so I think I'll swap them over. The originals are an inch shorter (because there's no rubber sleeve on the Delphis) but I think they'll do. **Like this one. |
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25th September 2020, 17:56 | #26 | ||
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27th September 2020, 09:42 | #27 | ||
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I didn't know Hammerite had switched to a low VOC formula white spirit type. I see they're still recommending their own Brush Cleaner & Thinner, which costs a mere £20+ per litre! I wish all car paints were water based - buying thinners has cost me a packet. The cheapest I've found is still £12.95 per litre. Quote:
I see what you mean about the rubber sleeves being an anti-fatigue device - it's a good idea and they do stop at least part of the crimp from rusting. Here's an MGR hose with the sleeve cut off. |
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27th September 2020, 11:56 | #28 | |
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1st October 2020, 13:34 | #29 |
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Sealey VS5056 Brake Pipe Straightener
Quick update.
Re the Sealey VS5056 Brake Pipe Straightener. Although the Kwix tool is likely to be better (and easier) the Sealey works quite well for such a cheap tool (I paid £7.39 inc postage). On a 150cm length it produces more of a gentle arc than a dead straight pipe but it's a good starting point. There are two ways of using it: either a) push it forward onto the pipe coil in a twisting motion, or b) hold it stationary while the pipe is pulled through it. The problem with method a) is that it's difficult to get enough grip to supply the necessary forward force. If they'd put a big flange on one end it would have been far easier because there'd be something to push against. The problem with method b) is that unless you've got an assistant you have to keep stopping to move your pipe-pulling hand closer to the coil, which tends to put a kink in the piece of pipe you've just straightened. If they'd made it bench-mountable (and you've got an assistant) it would work a treat - you could straighten the whole 25ft coil in one go just by walking backwards without releasing your grip on the pipe. So my opinion is it's good for the price but a bench-mountable version with one or two flanges would be a vast improvement. |
2nd October 2020, 13:32 | #30 |
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Test flares -are they good enough?
Having straightened some lengths of pipe I've now done a couple of tests using the handheld flaring tool on a short offcut.
(The tool is mentioned in TC's post 8 btw - it's this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held...72.m2749.l2649). 1639 1635 1636 1630 The first question is - are they good enough? The mating surfaces on both attempts look pretty rough to me. The second question relates to the use of the tool itself. The instructions say "A Spot of grease on the end of the punch is important to help the flare process". TC also said use a small amount of grease for each flare. The question is, which is the end of the punch - point A (the slim centre tip) or surface B (the large bevelled outer ring) - or both? 1645 For the test flares I put a small amount of grease on both A and B. Some of it inevitably ends up going inside the pipe btw, which isn't ideal considering they're brake pipes. Last edited by Blink; 4th October 2020 at 10:18.. |
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