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26th September 2019, 12:21 | #1 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Under the car
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Paint & underseal for wheel arches & underbody?
I'm trying to decide what paint to get for the inside of the wheel arches (behind the liners). The car is Zircon Silver and the same colour appears to have been used for the wheel arches, then some sort of silver-grey underbody protection sprayed on top of that.
What does everybody else use for the wheel arches and underbody? Btw, I don't have access to spraying equipment. I'll be putting Bilt Hamber Dynax UC or UB on top of whichever paint and underbody covering goes on. |
26th September 2019, 13:56 | #2 |
This is my second home
Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014
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I used to use Hammerite but the modern stuff is pants compared to the original (H&S gone mad!). I would suggest a visit to a boatbuilders store. Their stuff has to cope with being underwater and the seaside folks have to be under salt water. As you say, once done, some Bilt Hamner as an overcoat should be belt and braces.
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Oil in my veins! |
26th September 2019, 15:18 | #3 |
This is my second home
rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009
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I put Aquasteel on everything then coat with Dynax UB
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26th September 2019, 15:20 | #4 |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
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I simply sprayed our local super-market underbody spray over just about everything I could see that might need it.
Two years now and no sign of deterioration. Your spray on top of what's there should outlive the rest of the car.--- |
26th September 2019, 15:43 | #5 |
Gets stuck in
75 Tourer CDTi Connie SE Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Keith, Banffshire
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I have just finished waterproofing my slightly worn flashing on my roof with Bostick roof repair paint and wondered whether that would be any good on these sort of areas (where no stone chippings will affect)? It dries to a rubberised finish and is obviously totally waterproof.....just a thought!!
ps agree re hammerite, rust will appear after a few months, 2 coats on my rear arms didnt stop the rust for long!!
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My 75 Tourer CDTi was born Saturday, 21st June 2003 @ 09:50 My 75 was the 18,749th 75 Tourer to run off the production line, out of 27,407 It was the 195th 75 Tourer CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 2,074 and the 1,789th 75 Tourer in Wedgewood Blue Metallic (code: JEL) to be made out of 1,871 Wedgewood Blue Metallic 75 Tourers |
26th September 2019, 17:26 | #6 |
I really should get out more.......
MG ZT-T 260 Join Date: Feb 2016
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Por 15 seems to be the product that has superseded Hammerite, once dry it seems to be almost bullet proof.
Once opened it seems to go off in a few days so don't go buying more than you need. |
26th September 2019, 20:18 | #7 |
Posted a thing or two
2004 mk1 Rover 75 1.8T Club SE saloon (auto) Join Date: Jul 2013
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Just my two cents:
I'd be wary of "painting" any chassis/body parts underneath the car or in the wheel arches, unless you're going to to back to bare metal everywhere and properly prime/paint the whole thing. If every track of rust hasn't been completely removed, painting over it will likely just create a rust trap, which will allow it to spread underneath the paint/sealer unseen - before breakout :O As it sounds like you're going to be very thorough and keeping the car indefinitely, I'd be inclined to go the route of removing as much surface rust as possible, then using fe123 or BH Electrox just to be sure, before treating the whole area with Dynax UB or similar. This rust-inhibiting, waxy finish can then be touched up or manipulated as needed every year or so. If you're looking for 5 or 10 year protection, however, I'm sure any of the 3M rubberised undercoats or POR15 etc. will probably keep things looking decent for the foreseeable (without any real "maintenance"). Don't think there's any one-stop shop for rust, I'm afraid (find it; fix it!) Good luck, Karl. |
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