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28th January 2012, 13:26 | #1 |
I really should get out more.......
ZT 190+ Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Poole
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Removing an electric seat
My local scrappie has a R75 with front electric seats that I want. I went to remove them today but I couldn't figure out how! The bolts which hold the seat rail to the chassis is being covered by the seat. Normally on a manual seat I'd just move the seat backwards/forwards but I can't figure out how to do that on the electric seat.
Is there some kind of manual way of moving it?
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28th January 2012, 18:17 | #2 |
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Rover 75 CDTi Tourer Connoisseur SE Auto, Also fully restored Mk 2 1966 MG Midget Join Date: Apr 2007
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Electric Seat Removal
Hi,
I thought there was a "How to" for this on this forum, but can't find it. It must be on the other side's "How to's". I have just looked on the Mg-Rover forum's list of common questions and N0 59 deals with the deactivation of the Hi Line sat nav system giving the reason for the 30 minute wait after disconnecting the battery Please see the main methodology below. Briefly Preparation Firstly, at a scrap yard it is not the same as doing it at home. You need to have the car at ground level, and be able to open the four doors fully to be able to gain access to the bolts and get the seats out. Try to get the car on to a proper concrete base, not a muddy/oil soaked "field". The seats are heavy and arkward to hold/manouvre out of the car, especially the driver's seat. Part way through, you will need to disconnect the battery and leave for 30 minutes to allow the air bags' systems to be deactivated. Don't forget this or the bags may activate. Try to get a friend to help. -------------------------- You need to get a charged battery connected up in it's normal position. Set the steering wheel adjustment as high up and as far forwards as adjustment allows. You will need a T50 sized TX-star bit, socket, extension bar and ratchet to release and undo them. They will be tight. The doing - Tilt the seat back rearwards to give enough clearance to remove the head restraint. Then restore the seat back to it's normal position Then with the forward/reverse 'button, move the seat forward all the way to give you access to the rear mounting bolts - recessed star type. Undo and remove these. At this stage, you should know whether nearly all the electrical controls are working correctly. Then, with the F/R switch, move the seat on it's carriage all the way rearwards to give access to the front mounting bolts. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND WAIT AT LEAST 30 MINUTES TO ALLOW THE AIRBAGS TO BE DEACTIVATED. Then undo the front track securing bolts. A long extension bar will be usefull in removing the bolt next to the transmission tunnel. Pivot the seat forward on the front edges of the tracks and support with suitable wooden blocks under the rear, raised ends of the tracks. Unclip the cable connected to rear outer corner of the seat base linked to the seat belt system. Release the three (if full electric/memory/heated) connectors. from the seat frame and undo(split) them. You should now be able to lift the seat out. Once the seat is out, do you need the power cables / 'car side' of the connectors? Collect all the electrical bits you are likely to need. Don't forget the head restraints. Will you need to remove the "seat belt cable"? Are they already in the receptor car? Best of luck. Last edited by GeoffWW; 28th January 2012 at 18:38.. Reason: Did quick search on the MG-0Rover forum |
28th January 2012, 20:04 | #3 |
I really should get out more.......
ZT 190+ Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
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Thanks for that. looks like the only way is with a battery. The engine bay has already been stripped and wires cut so if I do use a battery I'll need to power it closer to the motor. I wouldn't need to worry about airbags, by the looks of it they've all gone. I guess the seats didn't have airbags in them.
It does slightly annoy me in scrap yards. I know they are scrap but people will break things to get to what they need. Total waste of spare parts. Some guy was tackling a few 75's and other rovers while I was there. He was taking the easy to snip stuff. I saw a few KV6 manifold in tact. If only he knew about those he might make a bit more cash.
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28th January 2012, 20:12 | #4 |
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fiat panda Join Date: Sep 2009
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look up how to retro fit the seats without the loom.this will tell you the colour of the wires ie live etc then connect them to a battery.you can allways snip the wiring the other side of the connector to expose the wires unless you need the loom as well
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28th January 2012, 20:45 | #5 |
I really should get out more.......
ZT 190+ Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
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Cheers. Will have a look at that tomorrow. Just hope the seat is still in tact when i go again. The other 75's had been savaged!
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28th January 2012, 21:06 | #6 |
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75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2009
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All you need to do is take a good battery, connect it up and away you go.
If this is not possible, and not knowing what has been butchered. Take some wire and a jump lead as well. Take out the glovebox and footwell fusebox panel cover. Connect the - from your battery to the earth strap with a jump lead, if you cannot open the bonnet clip it to the door stay. Fuses 51 and 53 supply the seats Fuse 9 supplies memory seat ECU they just need 12v If the fusebox is gone the wires are thick orange/green thick orange/yellow thin purple/slate (memory seat ECU) If the heated seat switches are there take them, and cut off the plugs, if the switche are gone and the plugs are there take them, most people sell the switches without the plugs. When the seats are out lift the carpet and take enough of the loom (aibag plugs too, as there are two sizes, and the ones on your seats may be a diferent size to the ones you are removing, you may have to swap the seat airbag plus or the loom airbag plugs) to reach the handbrake lever I have come across several rounded mounting bolts so take care when removing them, if you are using a 3/8" drive torx use a 1/22 drive convertor and 1/2" drive ratchet. Head on collision may not have set off the seat airbags. Check the pre tensioners, if they have fired you will need to replace them, £20 - £40 a pair, this should be reflected in the price of the seats. I have several pairs of pre tensioners.
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If at first you don't succeed, hide the evidence Last edited by Devilish; 28th January 2012 at 21:13.. |
28th January 2012, 21:27 | #7 |
I really should get out more.......
ZT 190+ Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
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Thanks. Very useful that. Not sure what was left inside. Engine was gone but looked like most other bits were there still. Hopefully next week it will still be there for me to dismantle.
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30th January 2012, 00:44 | #8 |
Been round the block
75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2009
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If you can get the carpet up you can cut off as much of the loom as you can, as close to the centre console as possible. then just power the seats with the loom wires.
I forgot it may well be a mkI, if the drivers seat has memory buttons the wires to power the memory seat ECU will have to be connected up, some seats have a yellow relay that has to be powered so I will simplfy things --------------- Passenger seat Cut the loom and strip the ends of these thick wires, twist them together and connect to 12v orange/green orange/yellow Strip the thick black and earth it The thick yellow is earth for heater elements leave this wire alone The seat motors will now work ------------- Drivers seat Do exactly the same as you did to the passenger seat If the drivers seat has memory buttons you must power this ECU under the seat for any of the motor functions to work, If it does do the foolowing also Strip the thin slate/grey(may look like black/grey) wire and twist it with the black earth wire (this will earth the seat ECU There will be either a thin brown/pink or slate/purple(may look black/purple) twist this with the orange/green and orange yellow wires (this will power the seat ECU The seat motors will work Do not forget to check all motor operations, there could be worm gear, switch or motor faults. It would be a good idea to connect a fuse somewhere along the wire you use as the live from the battery, you can just twist it to the pins of a blade fuse and tape up, take a spare fuse in case. Oh and FYI the wires are the same for the ZT
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If at first you don't succeed, hide the evidence Last edited by Devilish; 30th January 2012 at 00:56.. |
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