cdt alternator change from top & side. + pics

[Snagger]

First of all heads up to andel for this thread that was my guide.:-

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=143972

Tools trolley jack, axle stand, good selection of sockets, spanners.

1. Disconnect battery, remove undertray, engine cover, air intake bellows.

Remove drivers side front wheel, leave car propped on axle stand just in front of jacking pad. peel back wheel arch liner to expose aux belt, safeguard ABS & Brake wear sensors.

Place jack under sump to roadside centre left edge, protect sump from jack with block of wood,raise jack to take weight only at this point.You may need to adjust it's position for maximum effect.The engine will be movable back and forth also.

2.

Remove ps pump hose clip



3.

Remove p s fluid reservoir, leave hoses connected, check for leaks etc., move to side.




4.

Remove engine mount bracket, remove 19mm iso mount nut underneath.Raise engine on jack, to give sufficient height to withdraw bracket front captive bolt



5.

Remove bolts from alloy engine brace, raise ~ lower engine to suit on jack, wriggle free under power steering hose.Check for hoses trapping etc.



6.

Jack engine to expose auxiliary belt tensioner, so that an open ended 24mm spanner will fit.



7.

Remove three 8mm nuts from power steering pump pulley ,Push spanner toward windscreen with force, slide off ps pulley with aux belt still in groove, then release tension on tensioner.



8.

Power steering pump body now exposed.



9.

Again raise lower engine on jack, to facilitate the removal of p s pump through bolts 8mm & 10mm, watch for trapping of hoses and aircon pipe.

From the top left downward in photo, remove 10 mm stud, 8mm through bolt, 10mm stud, 8mm through bolt, and the pump body will be free of the engine block, remove two further 10mm through bolts to the radiator side of the pump body, and the captive nut retaining bracket will separate, strip down further as necessary if needed.Check hoses for leaks etc. move to one side.

10.

Alternator now is exposed, push down spring clip to alternator plug, and push off alt body with screwdriver in other hand.


11.

Follow large black V+ Black cable from alternator to starter motor junction clamp, remove rubber cap undo 13mm nut and spring washer remove cable refit nut & washer for safekeeping until needed.



12.

Remove 13mm bolt, top left alternator



13.

Remove 10mm bolt bottom right alternator, Follow oil filter casting to engine block, feel left and you will discover a void.This is the access for the second alt bolt, use and extension bar with a 10 mm socket put a piece of blue tack in the socket so you can withdraw it, once free. Socket just visible for guidance to upper right of valeo label, on the alt body.



14.

Drop the engine down enough to expose the third alternator bolt 13mm, remove through the wheel arch, it is just tucked behind the aircon drive belt in photo



Jack engine back up and install new alternator. lower again and secure bottom 13mm bolt first, then top 13mm bolt, lastly the 10mm fiddly one.

while wheel arch exposed, check route of auxiliary belt, here's it route for whenever you need to use it, NOTE it does not look exactly like this, this is more to illustrate the position of the belt in relation to the pulleys etc

When you have the belt in final position to re install , place the loose belt loop in the ps pump pulley, push forward on tensioner, and slide the ps pump pulley with belt in its groove over the three ps body bolts, replace the three 8mm nuts hand tight, release tension on tensioner, then nip the nuts up tight.



The usual refit is the reverse of etc... usual disclaimer neither I or the club will be responsible for any damage etc.

A bit of jiggery pockery may be necessary on refit, more likely around the area
of the alloy block engine mount, but nothing not doable.

Hope this helps.

Snagger.

[DMGRS]

Excellent guide - as doing it from underneath is a complete nightmare.
Thanks for the guide.

[Arctic]

Hi Found it easier from below no jacking up and down of the engine, but good write up gives members a choice

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=143183

[Mainframe444]

Once again, I'd like to give thanks for what a fantastically useful resource this forum is!

I bought my car in January, and it had a whining noise when running, I was sure it was either the PAS pump or the alternator.

However, the appearance of "charge fault" on the IPK made my mind up, and four hours later I have a car that I can now hear the engine on, with a happy battery.

I also changed the belts while I was doing it, the aircon belt was about on its last legs!



MainFrame

[David Lawrence]

I admire you guys who can take all those pictures while doing a job like that!

[grivas]

Originally Posted by David Lawrence

I admire you guys who can take all those pictures while doing a job like that!

Likewise I admire all those of you out there with the skill to carry out these type of task, I believe I could probably be able to do it but on a test vehicle, not my own for fear of making a mess of it, a very well done, thank you.

[BigRuss]

That's the way I do it far quicker and easier than the other methods

Just like to add that it's best to slacken the power steering pump pulley bolts before removing the belt so you can remove then easily.
If you need to hold the pulley the best method is to use an old belt as a strap wrench this avoids the possibility of damage to the pulley

Russ

[simon hubbard]

Many thanks for this guide, it was really helpful.

The only thing i would add is that for point 6, using a spanner to move the belt tensioner - and when you are putting the belt back on, I found it easier to do the following:

Raise the engine to allow access to get the spanner seated on the bolt/nut, and then lower the engine a little so the spanner is held in place against the side member of the bodywork. It just helped to stop the spanner slipping off the bolt/nut when trying to release the tensioner.

[Snagger]

Glad it was of some use Simon.

Nice idea as regards trapping the tensioner pulley bolt

I welcome any additions that could improve speed up this technique.

Big Russes idea of undoing the three P.S pulley bolts then sliding the pulley off with the belt saves the "struggle to ease the belt off the pulley syndrome", which can lead to belt damage if levers are used to try an lift / tease it off.

I'll give it another year to see if there are any more additions, then I'll edit the how to, with the suggestions.

Snagger.

[simon hubbard]

It was very useful - plus, most importantly the battery light has now gone out when the car is started!!!