Fuel cooler thermo valve mount

[klarzy]

Originally Posted by David Lawrence

Hi arctic, it wouldnt have happened without you suggesting it, so thanks for that.

I used stainless bolts this time so will keep an eye on the earth strap as i only had electrical copper wire available. The original appears to have been steel so i may have to reterminate the original and put it back later. I did notice that rimmers list the earth strap separately.

I also plan to make a better bracket to swap over later. I just used what i had to hand as i hadnt expected to need one. If i do that i will make a template for others to follow.

if you send me a sketch of it I will make up a 3d and some drawings for folks to follow..

[Arctic]

Hi David & Peter.
May I suggest that a moderator is asked if they could either copy this into the tech part because this is going to help future members and I doubt they will look in the wanted section just a thought

[spyder]

Time for a stupid question: how would one know if the fuel cooler was not working/ pumping and what are the effects of it not working.

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by spyder

Time for a stupid question: how would one know if the fuel cooler was not working/ pumping and what are the effects of it not working.

I don't think you would know any time soon.

From what i saw, all that would happen is the hot fuel would just go directly back to the tank, so then the theory is that when hot fuel hits cold tank, it encourages condensation and so water builds up in the fuel which presumably would eventually clog the filter .

What is easy to spot, is a leaking one, which I'm guessing is the most common problem with them. The thermostat is so simple I cant see how else they'd ever fail, so you'd be pretty safe to assume it is working fine, unless you spot an oil slick on your yard.

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by klarzy

if you send me a sketch of it I will make up a 3d and some drawings for folks to follow..

Its a bit rough, made out of a yoghurt packet, but maybe it is enough for you to work from?

20150125_172820060_iOS.jpg

You would start with a flat plate 105mm x 70mm, then cut it down to a Y shape with a fold line 50mm up from the bottom, with a 30mm long 15mm wide central extension which stays flat as you bend up the legs of the Y.

The main bolt hole consists of 2 of 10mm dia holes side by side filed out to make an oval 20mm wide. The centre is 25mm up from the fold line.

The bottom leg of the Y is 35mm wide.

There are then 3 of 6mm holes. One in the centre extension centred 45mm from the centre line of the main bolt hole. That hole secures the extension to the plastic bracket on the car. The original was rivetted on, but you can drill that out and replace with a small bolt.

The other 2 x 6mm holes are for the mounting holes on the thermostat. They are centred 12mm down from the top of the Y and 55mm apart.

Then just cut down the top of the Y to meet the bottom leg and bend it over at a right angle on the fold line.

This size is the best I could guess the original to be with all the rusty bits that fell out of the middle.

You could get away with maybe another 10mm on the length of the top Y to give yourself a bit more wriggle room to get the bolts in.

I would use 2 x M6 x 25mm bolts to secure the thermostat to the bracket.

I used a small M6 for the bracket fixing bolt as well, but if you are a bit more careful than me drilling out the original rivet you can get away with something smaller.

Hope it helps.

[David Lawrence]

20150125_172839356_iOS.jpgforgot to say I'm going to try making it out of 1.2mm thick stainless. And here is how it folds

[klarzy]

Originally Posted by David Lawrence

Attachment 44402forgot to say I'm going to try making it out of 1.2mm thick stainless. And here is how it folds

is the fold 90 degrees

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by klarzy

is the fold 90 degrees

Yes it is90 degrees. The whole thing should be symmetrical so it shouldnt matter which way it is folded.

One thing i just remembered is that there should be a small "v" cut in the top centre of the 'y', this is so the bracket clears one of the plastic tubes on the thermostat.

The original was a semi circle of about 10mm diameter, but far too rusty to measure. I made mine with tin snips so a 'v' is much easier, bringing the bottom of the "v' 10mm down from the top, will be fine.

I suppose if you drilled a 10mm hole before you cut the plate, it would be easy to make, so you may want to draw either way.

[klarzy]

Is this in line with expectations?



if so i will finish a dimentioned drawing

[klarzy]