stud removal

euro44 · 19th May 2021, 17:44

While in the process of replacing rusty exhaust manifold nuts guess what i did?? Yep, two studs just broke off. Lots of naughty words later i find they must have been broken for quite a time. I had soaked them for a week in plus gas and barely put any pressure on the ratchet before they just dropped out. Now of course i have the wonderful job of trying to get the remains out of the head. I really hadnt planned on removing the cylinder head but unless one of you wizards can suggest a short cut i guess thats now my only hope. I suspect a previous owner bodged it before passing the problem on to the unsuspecting fool who now owns it.

macafee2 · 19th May 2021, 17:47

look on Youtube, there are many examples of how to remove a stuck stud

macafee2

COLVERT · 19th May 2021, 19:32

Unless you are good at fiddly delicate things it's best left to an expert.--Normally if they are reasonably easy to get at they need to be drilled DEAD CENTER.--

-Then a stud extractor carefully screwed into the drilled hole.---Now you come to the delicate bit. Stud extractors are made from high carbon steel and are very delicate.--It's VERY easy to put a bit of sideways pressure on the extractor and SNAP it.---You then end up with the doubly difficult job of removing something that is too hard to drill.---

PS. The moral of your story is------If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it.---

macafee2 · 19th May 2021, 21:53

I don't know the studs, is any stud poking out of the hole or is there thread in the hole you can screw into?

Drilling dead centre, I found a neat trick on Youtube. If you have the tools its a piece of cake.

macafee2

Ducati750cc · 20th May 2021, 00:22

Four solutions, some can with a bit of luck be done in situ.

1) If there is sufficient stud standing proud, weld a nut on it, the direct heat on the stud usually helps as well.

2) Flush with the head, drill and use a stud extractor, either the tapered left hand thread type or the spline type, used with care as mentioned above, but if it is well and truly rusted in it may not shift.

3) Drill out and tap to the next size up space permitting.

4) Expensive but sometimes a life saver when used by a skilled operator.......spark erosion.

To prevent a reoccurrence, use stainless or brass nuts and some high temp ceramic anti-seize compound.

euro44 · 20th May 2021, 11:47

thank you all for the advice. will attempt to drill and use easy out in situ, space is really limited between manifold and rad but a right angle drill adapter might just do the job if i am very careful. the you tube vids are really good as guides to doing a never attempted job. the studs i have removed either came out really easy or just snapped off ( 2 in total ) level with the head surface. I have a set of stainless replacements waiting to go in if this works. If not I will have to remove the head so I have enough room to rectify the problem. will post on progress ( or lack of knowing my luck.) chris.

COLVERT · 20th May 2021, 13:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by euro44

thank you all for the advice. will attempt to drill and use easy out in situ, space is really limited between manifold and rad but a right angle drill adapter might just do the job if i am very careful. the you tube vids are really good as guides to doing a never attempted job. the studs i have removed either came out really easy or just snapped off ( 2 in total ) level with the head surface. I have a set of stainless replacements waiting to go in if this works. If not I will have to remove the head so I have enough room to rectify the problem. will post on progress ( or lack of knowing my luck.) chris.

It's good news if some of the studs came out easily.--Hopefully the broken bits will do the same.

When using the stud extractor a double ended holder is needed so you can put an equal pressure on the extractor and not just on one side.--The loading needs to be axial.---

Thunderbolt · 20th May 2021, 18:11

If you can, try and make a drilling jig, so that you stand a fair chance of drilling and not snapping

This is for a Porsche but you get the idea.
https://www.design911shop.com/Stomsk...4aAnieEALw_wcB

Thunderbolt · 20th May 2021, 18:13

https://youtu.be/2cND6gJlbsk

Linky from America showing a guide.

xsport · 22nd May 2021, 22:46

these studs are extremely hard and especially brittle.i suppose that its the heat that they have to endure.even when they are new they can shear off very easily whilst tightening unless you release any other pressures on the flanges i.e. a hanging exhaust your trying to mate up. rimmers dont sell these now for the kv6 ... only when buying a new manifold complete. i had the same issue as the op has. the broken stud would not tap out or drive out in situ too much flex.... they are on splines and are driven in sometimes not aligned properly when the bolt is first tightened from new. he is correct .. no room to manoever very tight in there especially lying on your back working. i did however manage to remove 2 of them using a ball joint separator with a little improvision. would have been better with a bolt and nuts setup but there must have been a reason for this set up ...

19th May 2021, 17:44	#1
euro44 Avid contributor mg zt-t 226th made from total of 396 Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: chelmsford Posts: 155 Thanks: 175 Thanked 55 Times in 37 Posts	stud removal While in the process of replacing rusty exhaust manifold nuts guess what i did?? Yep, two studs just broke off. Lots of naughty words later i find they must have been broken for quite a time. I had soaked them for a week in plus gas and barely put any pressure on the ratchet before they just dropped out. Now of course i have the wonderful job of trying to get the remains out of the head. I really hadnt planned on removing the cylinder head but unless one of you wizards can suggest a short cut i guess thats now my only hope. I suspect a previous owner bodged it before passing the problem on to the unsuspecting fool who now owns it.

19th May 2021, 19:32	#3
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	Unless you are good at fiddly delicate things it's best left to an expert.--Normally if they are reasonably easy to get at they need to be drilled DEAD CENTER.---Then a stud extractor carefully screwed into the drilled hole.---Now you come to the delicate bit. Stud extractors are made from high carbon steel and are very delicate.--It's VERY easy to put a bit of sideways pressure on the extractor and SNAP it.---You then end up with the doubly difficult job of removing something that is too hard to drill.--- PS. The moral of your story is------If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it.---

20th May 2021, 00:22	#5
Ducati750cc Loves to post Rover75 tourer Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Ashton Posts: 428 Thanks: 121 Thanked 206 Times in 145 Posts	Four solutions, some can with a bit of luck be done in situ. 1) If there is sufficient stud standing proud, weld a nut on it, the direct heat on the stud usually helps as well. 2) Flush with the head, drill and use a stud extractor, either the tapered left hand thread type or the spline type, used with care as mentioned above, but if it is well and truly rusted in it may not shift. 3) Drill out and tap to the next size up space permitting. 4) Expensive but sometimes a life saver when used by a skilled operator.......spark erosion. To prevent a reoccurrence, use stainless or brass nuts and some high temp ceramic anti-seize compound. __________________ Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it.

20th May 2021, 18:11	#8
Thunderbolt Avid contributor MG ZT-T+ 190 Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Bristol Posts: 224 Thanks: 101 Thanked 19 Times in 16 Posts	If you can, try and make a drilling jig, so that you stand a fair chance of drilling and not snapping This is for a Porsche but you get the idea. https://www.design911shop.com/Stomsk...4aAnieEALw_wcB __________________ 1186th ZT-T 190 out of 1756

20th May 2021, 18:13	#9
Thunderbolt Avid contributor MG ZT-T+ 190 Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Bristol Posts: 224 Thanks: 101 Thanked 19 Times in 16 Posts	https://youtu.be/2cND6gJlbsk Linky from America showing a guide. __________________ 1186th ZT-T 190 out of 1756 Last edited by Thunderbolt; 23rd May 2021 at 22:13.. Reason: Awetoekawreck

19th May 2021, 17:47	#2
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,912 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	look on Youtube, there are many examples of how to remove a stuck stud macafee2

19th May 2021, 21:53	#4
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,912 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	I don't know the studs, is any stud poking out of the hole or is there thread in the hole you can screw into? Drilling dead centre, I found a neat trick on Youtube. If you have the tools its a piece of cake. macafee2

20th May 2021, 11:47	#6
euro44 Avid contributor mg zt-t 226th made from total of 396 Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: chelmsford Posts: 155 Thanks: 175 Thanked 55 Times in 37 Posts	thank you all for the advice. will attempt to drill and use easy out in situ, space is really limited between manifold and rad but a right angle drill adapter might just do the job if i am very careful. the you tube vids are really good as guides to doing a never attempted job. the studs i have removed either came out really easy or just snapped off ( 2 in total ) level with the head surface. I have a set of stainless replacements waiting to go in if this works. If not I will have to remove the head so I have enough room to rectify the problem. will post on progress ( or lack of knowing my luck.) chris.

22nd May 2021, 22:46	#10
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,637 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	studs these studs are extremely hard and especially brittle.i suppose that its the heat that they have to endure.even when they are new they can shear off very easily whilst tightening unless you release any other pressures on the flanges i.e. a hanging exhaust your trying to mate up. rimmers dont sell these now for the kv6 ... only when buying a new manifold complete. i had the same issue as the op has. the broken stud would not tap out or drive out in situ too much flex.... they are on splines and are driven in sometimes not aligned properly when the bolt is first tightened from new. he is correct .. no room to manoever very tight in there especially lying on your back working. i did however manage to remove 2 of them using a ball joint separator with a little improvision. would have been better with a bolt and nuts setup but there must have been a reason for this set up ...