2004 Rover 75 CLUB LE 4D Sedan V6 auto - ABS Fault - Page 2

TramPower4000 · 17th July 2021, 08:19

Thankyou both for your appreciated advice, and for your detailed pictures. I saw those pictures (or something similar) on another thread. I'd definitely try that approach myself except that I have very, very limited space to do the work, and I'm not really very mechanical. My wife would create an intense input so I'll persevere with the TOAF option for the moment. This would also be easier for the garage mechanic who is assisting.

Today he put the car on the hoist and checked all the sensors for obvious damage. The RH front sensor was damaged, and wiggling it around cured the issue for a short minute until it re-faulted. But he wasn't convinced that was the whole story, saying it would be nice to have TOAF! (which he'd not heard of by the way, only T4, which his colleague disposed of years ago - Perth WA is just so far away from England!). He also checked the wheel bearings all around, saying that loose bearings can also cause a problem. They were all good and tight.

Anyway, I'm about to download TOAF tonight, and scan it for bugs, and have it further scanned by my IT friend (the reason being there's a question mark over the security certificate of the website - I'm just being neurotic probably - it's only my 'Edge' browser that throws a warning). Then I'll try and get familiar with TOAF on my laptop before I take it to the mechanic, who has said I must only ever use it in the 'read' mode.

Anyway, I've taken the plunge and bought 4 OEM sensors from DMGRS. But whether more than the damaged one gets replaced I'll wait and see.

But what's causing me anxiety about this project is using TOAF. Vitesse says it's great value, so I must learn to use it properly. And that will set me up long term. One thing though, not sure where it actually plugs in?

Hello Vitesse, thanks for that. I'm Windows 10 so hopefully I can fish through it and figure it out. The connector is specifically for a Rover 75, so with luck I won't need a driver like yourself (a Mac user). I'll let you know how I go! The link that describes the cable is ...

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/174768878115

I hope it works ...

vitesse · 17th July 2021, 08:59

I've used Toaf on a Win 10 machine and it worked fine. My method of port selection was most technical: plugged the lead into every USB port until I found the right one and drew an arrow in crayon so I'd know next time

Sold that machine to a friend and now I use XP.

If you're so anxious about security then acquire a cheap, old laptop and use it exclusively for TOAF and off-line.

You can never be quite sure with wheel bearings as although they give no other symptoms the magnetic strip can become contaminated with rust flakes especially from the rear brake shields. Toaf will only tell you which corner is playing up, then it's down to physical examination of both the sensor and magnetic strip.

The OBD port on my LHD car is in the driver's footwell, obscured by the panel under the steering wheel but at the bottom of that panel. Can't remember if you're LHD or RHD down there although I visited Fremantle many years ago.

Good luck

TramPower4000 · 17th July 2021, 09:22

Thankyou Vitesse, yes I'll try your USB port selection technique! As for the laptop, yes that's exactly what I'm doing. Spent a few hours getting it going again. Just can't be too careful with ransomware and all that stuff. Thanks for the plug position info also. Tonight I'm downloading TOAF, and maybe the driver if needed (we'll see).

Am looking forward to seeing the TOAF control panel, or whatever it is ... Also because I see so many references to TOAF on these Owners Club forums.

Next step is to receive the test cable, and the sensors ...

We're RHD by the way. Thanks again!

TramPower4000 · 19th July 2021, 09:05

Hello vitesse, further to last, I have now downloaded TOAF successfully onto my 'isolated' laptop. Interestingly the TOAF website is still flagging warnings on my Edge and Firefox browsers; the reason being that the website security certificate is out of date. That said, I took a punt and downloaded TOAF anyway (and the driver, just in case I need it). I've sent two emails to the TOAF administrators asking that they update the website with a new certificate. No response so far.

Coming to the point, would you be able to confirm with me how to operate TOAF? And let me know what these option codes mean on the TOAF webpage? They are ... Engine, LCM, BCU, EWS, IKE, SRS, ABS/ASC, ATC, PDC, RADIO, JATCO, SHD, SMAC, Webasto, Scan car, VIN, and Connect. Alternatively, is there a document anywhere that explains all these things? I guess some are pretty obvious, but maybe not? I just don't know. And I'm anxious not to damage the car's electronic systems accidently. Also, I can't see a 'Read Only' button. But maybe that shows up later somehow.

Thankyou so much.

vitesse · 19th July 2021, 12:21

I've sent a message to your registered email address. I've got a partial Users Guide which answers most of your questions.

I don't worry too much about site certificates if it's a site I've previously used, and I've just checked the Toaf website with Safari, and Firefox and no certificate issues my end.

There's no read only mode as such, but rather if you want to change settings and then save them, is what I understand as write mode. But as long as you just browse the programme, activating things like VIS motors, or the fan, then that's read mode. An example perhaps: I've disabled the rear automatic defroster, an active choice where I have to select disable and then save the change - that to me is write mode, but prior to the change I made a back-up so I can revert to standard settings at anytime. Bit like using Word: you can read any document without danger but if you actively change something in the text then that's write mode. Hope that clarifies things.

Regards

17th July 2021, 08:19	#11
TramPower4000 Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 28 Thanks: 18 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts	Thankyou both for your appreciated advice, and for your detailed pictures. I saw those pictures (or something similar) on another thread. I'd definitely try that approach myself except that I have very, very limited space to do the work, and I'm not really very mechanical. My wife would create an intense input so I'll persevere with the TOAF option for the moment. This would also be easier for the garage mechanic who is assisting. Today he put the car on the hoist and checked all the sensors for obvious damage. The RH front sensor was damaged, and wiggling it around cured the issue for a short minute until it re-faulted. But he wasn't convinced that was the whole story, saying it would be nice to have TOAF! (which he'd not heard of by the way, only T4, which his colleague disposed of years ago - Perth WA is just so far away from England!). He also checked the wheel bearings all around, saying that loose bearings can also cause a problem. They were all good and tight. Anyway, I'm about to download TOAF tonight, and scan it for bugs, and have it further scanned by my IT friend (the reason being there's a question mark over the security certificate of the website - I'm just being neurotic probably - it's only my 'Edge' browser that throws a warning). Then I'll try and get familiar with TOAF on my laptop before I take it to the mechanic, who has said I must only ever use it in the 'read' mode. Anyway, I've taken the plunge and bought 4 OEM sensors from DMGRS. But whether more than the damaged one gets replaced I'll wait and see. But what's causing me anxiety about this project is using TOAF. Vitesse says it's great value, so I must learn to use it properly. And that will set me up long term. One thing though, not sure where it actually plugs in? Hello Vitesse, thanks for that. I'm Windows 10 so hopefully I can fish through it and figure it out. The connector is specifically for a Rover 75, so with luck I won't need a driver like yourself (a Mac user). I'll let you know how I go! The link that describes the cable is ... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/174768878115 I hope it works ...

17th July 2021, 08:59	#12
vitesse I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Gävle Posts: 2,570 Thanks: 395 Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts	I've used Toaf on a Win 10 machine and it worked fine. My method of port selection was most technical: plugged the lead into every USB port until I found the right one and drew an arrow in crayon so I'd know next time Sold that machine to a friend and now I use XP. If you're so anxious about security then acquire a cheap, old laptop and use it exclusively for TOAF and off-line. You can never be quite sure with wheel bearings as although they give no other symptoms the magnetic strip can become contaminated with rust flakes especially from the rear brake shields. Toaf will only tell you which corner is playing up, then it's down to physical examination of both the sensor and magnetic strip. The OBD port on my LHD car is in the driver's footwell, obscured by the panel under the steering wheel but at the bottom of that panel. Can't remember if you're LHD or RHD down there although I visited Fremantle many years ago. Good luck

17th July 2021, 09:22	#13
TramPower4000 Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 28 Thanks: 18 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts	Thankyou Vitesse, yes I'll try your USB port selection technique! As for the laptop, yes that's exactly what I'm doing. Spent a few hours getting it going again. Just can't be too careful with ransomware and all that stuff. Thanks for the plug position info also. Tonight I'm downloading TOAF, and maybe the driver if needed (we'll see). Am looking forward to seeing the TOAF control panel, or whatever it is ... Also because I see so many references to TOAF on these Owners Club forums. Next step is to receive the test cable, and the sensors ... We're RHD by the way. Thanks again!

19th July 2021, 09:05	#14
TramPower4000 Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 28 Thanks: 18 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts	Hello vitesse, further to last, I have now downloaded TOAF successfully onto my 'isolated' laptop. Interestingly the TOAF website is still flagging warnings on my Edge and Firefox browsers; the reason being that the website security certificate is out of date. That said, I took a punt and downloaded TOAF anyway (and the driver, just in case I need it). I've sent two emails to the TOAF administrators asking that they update the website with a new certificate. No response so far. Coming to the point, would you be able to confirm with me how to operate TOAF? And let me know what these option codes mean on the TOAF webpage? They are ... Engine, LCM, BCU, EWS, IKE, SRS, ABS/ASC, ATC, PDC, RADIO, JATCO, SHD, SMAC, Webasto, Scan car, VIN, and Connect. Alternatively, is there a document anywhere that explains all these things? I guess some are pretty obvious, but maybe not? I just don't know. And I'm anxious not to damage the car's electronic systems accidently. Also, I can't see a 'Read Only' button. But maybe that shows up later somehow. Thankyou so much.

19th July 2021, 12:21	#15
vitesse I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Gävle Posts: 2,570 Thanks: 395 Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts	I've sent a message to your registered email address. I've got a partial Users Guide which answers most of your questions. I don't worry too much about site certificates if it's a site I've previously used, and I've just checked the Toaf website with Safari, and Firefox and no certificate issues my end. There's no read only mode as such, but rather if you want to change settings and then save them, is what I understand as write mode. But as long as you just browse the programme, activating things like VIS motors, or the fan, then that's read mode. An example perhaps: I've disabled the rear automatic defroster, an active choice where I have to select disable and then save the change - that to me is write mode, but prior to the change I made a back-up so I can revert to standard settings at anytime. Bit like using Word: you can read any document without danger but if you actively change something in the text then that's write mode. Hope that clarifies things. Regards