Battery light on

[rockerbox]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

If you have got over 14 volts at idle then the alternator sounds like it is doing what it should.

Could be a wiring fault - Chris had exactly the same problem here:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=203716

Maybe you should look at this again ?

[Stickman]

Originally Posted by rockerbox

Maybe you should look at this again ?

I'd be inclined to agree based on my own experiences
I tried everything else first and found after considerable expense the culprit was
The wiring loom that runs up the inner wing
Snagger had maintained all along the prime suspect was the loom and he wasn't
Wrong
It only takes 15 or 20 minutes to remove the bumper buddy-I'd also remove the washer bottle as it gives you better access to examine the wiring
The whole process is still far less grief than changing the alternator or just the regulator pack
Regards
Chris

[Hootbleet]

Originally Posted by rockerbox

Maybe you should look at this again ?

Originally Posted by Stickman

I'd be inclined to agree based on my own experiences
I tried everything else first and found after considerable expense the culprit was
The wiring loom that runs up the inner wing
Snagger had maintained all along the prime suspect was the loom and he wasn't
Wrong
It only takes 15 or 20 minutes to remove the bumper buddy-I'd also remove the washer bottle as it gives you better access to examine the wiring
The whole process is still far less grief than changing the alternator or just the regulator pack
Regards
Chris

My train of thought is definitely heading down this route, especially since there is no sign of battery drain even under heavy load. I did have the front end off last weekend but couldn't see any obvious breaks in the wiring, but I'll have another look at it as I didn't remove the washer bottle previously.

Thanks felllas

[Stickman]

I suggest you strip the insulation right back on the loom mate and have a real good look at the wires whilst separating them with your fingers
You will find it much easier with the washer bottle removed too
Let us know how you get on?
Regards
Chris

[Hootbleet]

Originally Posted by Stickman

I suggest you strip the insulation right back on the loom mate and have a real good look at the wires whilst separating them with your fingers
You will find it much easier with the washer bottle removed too
Let us know how you get on?
Regards
Chris

Removed bumper, slam panel, o/s headlight and washer bottle. Traced the brown/yellow and all the other cables in the vicinity from the bottom of the radiator to the upper part of the wheel arch behind the washer bottle. Stripped all the insulation but didn't find any breaks or chaffing. Re-insulated all the cables and put everything back together.

Went for approx 15 mile drive, light flickered faintly to begin with and then extinguished. ELM OBD reported 13.8 to 14.2 volts throughout the journey, this was with headlights, rear heated window, heated seats and blower on.

Hopefully this is all sorted now, I guess time will tell, thanks for everyones help

[Stickman]

Fingers crossed for you buddy
Regards
Chris

[Hootbleet]

Oh well, spoke too soon, light is still on, but battery is still holding full charge, even after 50 miles this morning.

Looks like the faulty connection is elsewhere, it'll have to wait until later in the week now.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by Hootbleet

Oh well, spoke too soon, light is still on, but battery is still holding full charge, even after 50 miles this morning.

Looks like the faulty connection is elsewhere, it'll have to wait until later in the week now.

To keep the cars electronic system out of the equation could you give us the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter ??

Let the engine tick over with no lights, fans etc switched on.

If you are getting over 14 volts the charging system is OK.

If there was a wiring fault it would show up at tickover as well as any other engine speed.

[Hootbleet]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

To keep the cars electronic system out of the equation could you give us the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter ??

Let the engine tick over with no lights, fans etc switched on.

If you are getting over 14 volts the charging system is OK.

If there was a wiring fault it would show up at tickover as well as any other engine speed.

The charging light is inconsistent, sometimes not on, sometimes feint, other times fully on. It also shows it's ugly head at various rpms.

As for the voltage @ Rickover with no load it is about 14.2 according to my multimeter. I've now clocked up 150 miles of stop/start journeys today and it hasn't missed a beat. It's only the charging light that shows any kind of problem 😡

[Snagger]

Hootbleet check out the links in my signature.

One other area that can give a flickering intermittent dash battery light, is the two wires that come off the FBH sensor.

You'll have to take the bumper off again, and locate the sensor that is on a bracket lower slam panel, not the bumper one.

Look up and the two wires from the sensor run into the loom (in-between the radiator and the slam panel ) that supplies the fog lamps and indicators.These are subject to a lot of road moisture and corrode very easily.If memory serves one is yellow brown the other green. Also check the terminals on the sensor itself for corrosion, as they and chafed wiring can be subject to intermittent contact whilst on the move.

Snagger.