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4th May 2015, 10:13 | #1 |
Gets stuck in
VW touareg Join Date: Mar 2015
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troublesome gear change/clutch
yesterday i had trouble engaging gears when at a stand . its better when moving but not good . will bleeding the clutch help or is it a slave jobbie . if it is the slave what is the rough price for changing the lot whilst the gearbox is out . i am willing to try this myself but does the box come out from under the car or can it be lifted out frim the top . any pointers much appreciated
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4th May 2015, 12:02 | #2 |
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Jackedup
Having the same problem, my wife had to call the RAC last week and and the mechanic injected clutch fluid into the bleeder tube ontop of the bell housing he believes the the slave cylinder is leaking which is in the gearbox but another mechanic says it cant because the brakes would be effect, which they are not.
Fault happened again in the last half hour when wife took car out, I have found that by putting my hand onto the linkage and moving it about for few minutes with the engine off and clutch pressed it fixes the problem, I am taking it to a garage this week to let them have a look (but not necessarely do the job), I will post back when I get an answer sorry cant be more help but if you get stuck least you have a chance of temporary fix |
4th May 2015, 15:06 | #3 | |
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04 MG ZT+ 190 XPG & 99 (T) Dealer Launch 75 V6 Connie Auto Join Date: Oct 2012
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Quote:
Firstly, I would start by bleeding the whole system and see how she drives from then on, before outlaying any money. Often the fluid can be contaminated especially if it has never been changed. As for prices of parts, you can get a slave and clutch kit from Mat (DMGRS) HERE for £169.99 If it is the slave that has failing/failed DO NOT be tempted to buy a cheap one, I did and it lasted 300 miles! ONLY buy a genuine LUK (part no 510008310) from either DMGRS or Andrew Page motor factors. Finally, apart from removing the battery box, fuel filter and selector cables the majority of the work is done from underneath the car.
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4th May 2015, 15:16 | #4 |
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Jackedup
Many thanks in the process of bleeding when the heavens opened up the clutch pedal is on the floor like the first message, I have lost no fluid, and when this fault of unable to get it into gear started wiggling the linkage worked but not this time.
Sorry if I am piggy packing someone else problem but we both seem to have same probleme |
4th May 2015, 15:41 | #5 | |
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Quote:
If the clutch pedal is on the floor, you have lost clutch fluid. Is there any sign of clutch fluid on the carpet under the clutch pedal? Or otherwise under the car under the gearbox bell housing?
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4th May 2015, 16:25 | #6 |
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Jackedup
Just checked no to both according to the haines manual its all filled from the same resevour as the brakes but that is full the pedal was low but as soon as I started to bleed it went straight to the floor and zero resistance, if it is seperates as you say where do you top it up this problem with not being able to get into gear has happened 5 times in the last few months but never had to top up
your assistance is greatly appreciated |
4th May 2015, 16:51 | #7 |
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You fill/top up the fluid in the reservior that is integrated into the master cylinder. This can be found above the clutch pedal in the divers footwell. It is not easy to get to!
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4th May 2015, 17:05 | #8 |
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Have a look at THIS post. Some good pics and a bit of a "How To".
Also take note of post 2 in the thread!
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4th May 2015, 17:19 | #9 |
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Jackedup
Rain stopped, just tried bleeing system very little air or fluid came out peddle straight to floor no resistance.
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4th May 2015, 17:31 | #10 |
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If no fluid came out of the bleed nipple then the system has little or no fluid in it. Follow the procedure in my last post to try and bleed the system.
Make sure you understand the process before doing it. Have someone else operate the clutch pedal Up and down as you open/close the bleed nipple. Every couple of presses of the pedal top up the reservoir. Dont let it empty. It will take a bit of time but you should get to the point where the pedal goes stiff again.
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