Tip for removing lower ball joints

David Lawrence · 6th August 2015, 18:04

I must have removed the lower ball joints on these cars about 6 times now. 4 of those times they just came straight out, sometimes with the aid of turning the steering from side to side, and twice it has proved difficult from the point where it gets half way out then wont budge the rest of the way.

My solution was to use a bolt, and a column of nuts with 13mm af size.

Use a bolt just slightly longer than the gap between the hole the joint shaft sits through, then wind on about 3 nuts to the bottom end of it.

Insert the end with the nuts on in to the hole where the ball joint is hopefully already half way down. Then using 2 13mm spanners, one on the nut and one on the bolt head, unscrew the bolt until its head hits the hub above the hole.

Then keep unscrewing. The ball joint shaft will gradually sraighten up in the hole where it has jammed itself, and then gradually emerge free.

Doesnt take much force, comes out very gently, and might just get you around those stubborn ones that jam half way.

Mike24 · 6th August 2015, 18:19

I had this problem last weekend and ended up using a pry bar and probably more force than was really necessary. Your approach sounds much more gentlemanly!

David Lawrence · 6th August 2015, 19:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike24

I had this problem last weekend and ended up using a pry bar and probably more force than was really necessary. Your approach sounds much more gentlemanly!

Prybar just didnt work. I could see that what was happening was it slid out half way, then as the lower arm went down it pulled the hub in at an angle, then as soon as the joint got to that bit that has a groove around the centre it tilted slightly and jammed. More force levering the arm down just made it tilt more.

What the bolt does is press down square on the top of the joint shaft so it cant tilt, and then it just continues on its way smoothly until it pops out the bottom.

Got me thinking now about designing something better that can push the whole thing through from the top, then no levering at all, and no risk of damaging rubber boots and the likes by rough treatment.

Something a bit like the handbrake adjuster wheels made of something a bit harder, and easier to get a spanner on.

Mike Noc · 6th August 2015, 21:58

I turned down a set of shims of varying thicknesses and diameters just short of the hole for a good fit.

Adding them one at a time and using my aluminium crow bar to gently lever the ball joint down through the hole works a treat.

.

T-Cut · 6th August 2015, 22:07

It's said that if the hub is turned to exactly the correct position, the pin will virtually drop out under gravity. The underlying problem is that the pin and the receiver must remain perfectly coaxial or they'll bind solid.

TC

David Lawrence · 7th August 2015, 04:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Cut

It's said that if the hub is turned to exactly the correct position, the pin will virtually drop out under gravity. The underlying problem is that the pin and the receiver must remain perfectly coaxial or they'll bind solid.

TC

From my experiences 4 times out of 6 that is exactly right, but this one goes half way then tilts, so unless you are strong enough, and fast enough, or have a second pair of hands to be manipulating the steering at the same time as levering it needs a little extra help.

What i found the most encouraging with this method is that it just needs a few gentle turns of a bolt and it just pops out, no force needed at all, compared with an hour hammering and levering to no avail.

Mikes method sounds interesting as well. Hadnt thought of that.

Ive since found some long m8 nuts 22mm long which look a perfect fit for the job. Will do fine once the joint is already cracked as in my case, but im thinking now about one strong enough to crack the joint as well, which would need to be made out of something a bit stronger than A2 stainless which is all i can find at the moment.

Les4048 · 7th August 2015, 05:33

Any time I've worked on any ball joint Rover included I leave the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, slacken the nut but leave it on to protect the threads then give the side of it a ruddy good smack with a hammer and it drops out

ratchet · 7th August 2015, 09:10

I've had to remove the balljoints on the wife's 206 - they're an absolute pig to do.

I have a 5ft length of hardwood timber, 2 short chains and padlocks. I chain the timber to the bottom arm, secure it with the padlocks, and then step on the end of the timber........... it works a treat, and no boots are harmed

It can be done with one chain, if you prop up the inboard end of your long length of timber with timber offcuts.

6th August 2015, 18:04	#1
David Lawrence This is my second home Rover 75 CDT-2001 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Wrexham, North Wales Posts: 3,606 Thanks: 195 Thanked 606 Times in 501 Posts	Tip for removing lower ball joints I must have removed the lower ball joints on these cars about 6 times now. 4 of those times they just came straight out, sometimes with the aid of turning the steering from side to side, and twice it has proved difficult from the point where it gets half way out then wont budge the rest of the way. My solution was to use a bolt, and a column of nuts with 13mm af size. Use a bolt just slightly longer than the gap between the hole the joint shaft sits through, then wind on about 3 nuts to the bottom end of it. Insert the end with the nuts on in to the hole where the ball joint is hopefully already half way down. Then using 2 13mm spanners, one on the nut and one on the bolt head, unscrew the bolt until its head hits the hub above the hole. Then keep unscrewing. The ball joint shaft will gradually sraighten up in the hole where it has jammed itself, and then gradually emerge free. Doesnt take much force, comes out very gently, and might just get you around those stubborn ones that jam half way.

6th August 2015, 21:58	#4
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,571 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	I turned down a set of shims of varying thicknesses and diameters just short of the hole for a good fit. Adding them one at a time and using my aluminium crow bar to gently lever the ball joint down through the hole works a treat. . Last edited by Mike Noc; 6th August 2015 at 22:18..

6th August 2015, 18:19	#2
Mike24 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTI Auto Saloon Connoisseur SE Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Coventry Posts: 358 Thanks: 166 Thanked 67 Times in 56 Posts	I had this problem last weekend and ended up using a pry bar and probably more force than was really necessary. Your approach sounds much more gentlemanly!

6th August 2015, 22:07	#5
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,754 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	It's said that if the hub is turned to exactly the correct position, the pin will virtually drop out under gravity. The underlying problem is that the pin and the receiver must remain perfectly coaxial or they'll bind solid. TC

7th August 2015, 05:33	#7
Les4048 This is my second home Rover 75 Tourer/ MG ZT-T 400 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Lhanbryde Posts: 3,278 Thanks: 2,627 Thanked 1,523 Times in 869 Posts	Any time I've worked on any ball joint Rover included I leave the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, slacken the nut but leave it on to protect the threads then give the side of it a ruddy good smack with a hammer and it drops out

7th August 2015, 09:10	#8
ratchet Posted a thing or two ZT-T + CTDI Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Gone walkabout Posts: 1,185 Thanks: 179 Thanked 361 Times in 289 Posts	I've had to remove the balljoints on the wife's 206 - they're an absolute pig to do. I have a 5ft length of hardwood timber, 2 short chains and padlocks. I chain the timber to the bottom arm, secure it with the padlocks, and then step on the end of the timber........... it works a treat, and no boots are harmed It can be done with one chain, if you prop up the inboard end of your long length of timber with timber offcuts.