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Old 16th July 2010, 23:42   #1
Hands-on
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Default 75 CDT SE - Auxiliary/Ancillary Drive Belt Routing

I needsome help with the belt that drives the water pump, steering pump and alternator on a CDT.

I have scoured the forum and checked on Rimmer Brothers site for a diagram that makes sense on how the 'fan belt' for the diesel is routed.

The Tech Help Forum sticky that used to lead to a very useful set of diagrams is no longer working (site has been updated/changed) and the Rimmer Brothers diagram shows the bet in the same routing as I have tried myself but the belt I have is too long for that route. I have one marked up as 5PK2030 which checks out on some sites/web pages.

Can anyone help me with the correct OEM part number and a pattern part number from UNIPART please?

Also, if anyone has a diagram or photo with the correct routing for the belt I'd be grateful.

Thanks in anticipation for all help received.

Hands-on
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Old 17th July 2010, 06:41   #2
HarryM1BYT
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I did mine this past week and I would suggest you will need some help, plus a good spanner for the tensioner.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=58367

The belts needed are Gates 5PK2030 long one and 5PK870 shorter one for the a/c. So the belt you have is the correct one.

Likely the a/c one will be cracked and in much worse state than the main one, but is much easier to change. The main belt has to come off to fit the a/c one, so best swapped at the same time.

There is a good clear diagram of the main belt route (rimmer?), but the diagram is not completely fool proof with regards to the route around the tensioner and idler pulleys. It is not easy to draw a diagram before you start, due to the poor visibility down there.

I'm not good at diagrams, so I'll list the pulley order as the belt progresses clockwise, as you look at the end of the engine over the OSF wing. Top left corner first-

1. Water pump
2. Power Steering
3. Small idler pulley (the smooth side of the belt to the pulley)
4. Alternator
5. Crank pulley
6. Tensioner Pulley (the smooth side of the belt to the pulley)

If you imagine two capapital W's side by side, rotate the left one clockwise 90 degrees and the right one anti clockwise 90 degrees so their tops are touching, that is the final shape of the belt once fitted.
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Old 17th July 2010, 13:24   #3
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Smile Many thanks

Many thanks for that very helpful response!

Indeed the routing you gave was correct.

I agree with other posts regarding the CDT Auxiliary Belt / Ancillary Belt change but found that for me the best way to do it is:

1. Strip out the old belt if it has failed, like mine had (a difficult job as the strips of shredded belt get wrapped around the shafts of the various pulleys and idlers)
2. Don't bother removing the wheel and plastic inner arch unless you really feel the urge to do so. I managed to do the job by adding a little ground clearance by driving the front wheels onto a couple of short planks about 2 inches thick (5cm).
3. Remove the undertray.
4. Get an open ended 15/16 inch or 24mm spanner and a slip of 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide wood (6mm x 25mm) about a foot long (30cm) and a piece of galvanised wire to use to hold the spanner in position, say about a foot long (30cm) or a little more.
5. Form the end of the wire so it fits around the welded-on square nut at the front side of and above the engine mounting and lock it back on itself.
6a) If the belt is still in place then put the spanner on the tensioner pulley bolt head as far towards the front as it will go, jam the piece of wood in between the spanner and the bodywork to stop it slipping off and heave backwards/upwards, wrap the wire around the spanner and lock it back so it will not flick loose. Now you can slip the belt off the crankshaft. I am not sure what you do from here to get the new belt but clearly the spanner has to be removed!
ALTERNATIVELY
6b) If (as in my case) the belt has broken then route the belt into position leaving it off the crankshaft pulley. Because the belt broke, the tensioner pulley will have moved too far forward to be able to be brought back into the required position using the big spanner bearing in mind the access available. So get a long bar and heave against the oil pump pulley to move the tensoner as far as possible then put the spanner on, jam the piece of wood in and lock it off with the wire.
7. Check the belt looks like it is in position in all the right grooves and roughly aligned on the idler and tension pulleys and carefully release the wire whilst holding the spanner against the tensioner pulley and then let the pulley spring slowly back into position.
7. Start the engine and run it for a few seconds then make a visual check that all is well.
8. Remount the undertray.

Once again, many thanks for the help I have received both from the threads and responses from others in similar circumstances and via the direct response above. Without this forum and the helpful members that post here, my car would still be parked up.

Now to change that pesky fan relay causing it stay on all the time, even when the ignition is off .....

All the best,

Hands-on

Last edited by Hands-on; 17th July 2010 at 13:29..
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Old 5th September 2010, 13:51   #4
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I'm going to do mine in the next few days. I'll take some photos as I go and post it on here.
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