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View Full Version : Sanity check - fitting handbrake shoes


gazcon
14th March 2015, 14:21
The Mrs' car is due in for MOT next week, with a non-existant handbrake. Dismantled the rear last weekend to find the handbrake shoes had disintegrated. Ordered some of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300610001297?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Removed the old ones, fitted the new ones, without too much trouble.

I'm a bit stuck now though. even with the adjuster wound all the way back I can't get the discs back on over the new shoes.

I've tried the old discs and a set of new discs I had in the garage, no joy.

Any clue were I'm going wrong here

http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w655/gazcon/IMG_0044_zpssrcksihk.jpg


http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w655/gazcon/IMG_0045_zpsaitqzcyn.jpg



Is it just that there's too much meat on the new shoes?

http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w655/gazcon/IMG_0042_zpsmbnxcafy.jpg

Thanks!

Kev75
14th March 2015, 14:31
Hi .
Have you backed off the handbrake lever aduster nut?

Kev

wullie480
14th March 2015, 14:42
Hi .
Have you backed off the handbrake lever aduster nut?

Kev

Also is the handbrake off?

gazcon
14th March 2015, 14:46
Hi .
Have you backed off the handbrake lever aduster nut?

Kev

No, I don't have a long socket to reach it. I thought I would be alright as it only made minor adjustments...

If that's my problem, any cunning tips for backing it off without the proper tool?

Also is the handbrake off?

Yep, there is a limit to my mechanical incompetence :D

roverbarmy
14th March 2015, 14:49
The small slot in the end of the new shoe in the pic (left hand end) doesn't look as big as the old one? Also try gently tapping the shoes (and any moveable support/pivot) either way to centralise them. Sometimes filing a slight chamfer edge (take care not to inhale dust) on leading edge helps. Plus handbrake adjuster nut adjusted well off as above.
Mike

No, I don't have a long socket to reach it. I thought I would be alright as it only made minor adjustments...

If that's my problem, any cunning tips for backing it off without the proper tool?

No! Get the proper tool. I bought a full set at Wilco for a few quid. If you're near enough, you can borrow mine?
Mike

gazcon
14th March 2015, 15:07
Thanks Roverbarmy. Sadly I'm t'other side of Norfolk, King's Lynn way.

Right, have had a break. Will go and see if I can come up with something.

rich17865
14th March 2015, 15:14
Proper tool?

Isn't it just a deep socket?

Where did you get the shoes? I remember reading about 2 sorts being available and one sort doesn't fit.

David Lawrence
14th March 2015, 15:37
Proper tool?

Isn't it just a deep socket?

Where did you get the shoes? I remember reading about 2 sorts being available and one sort doesn't fit.

Those linings do look quite thick. They are not from a V8 or something are they? Also have you got a rust ridge around the edge of the drum? Try removing it with some coarse sandpaper

oldcarguy
14th March 2015, 15:38
Those shoe's look way to meaty, they normally look like they are nearly worn out.

suffolk boy
14th March 2015, 15:44
had the same the linings are to thick i managed to get the drum on but then the wheel would not turn.in the end i got unipart ones that where fine the others are still in the shed.you will have to get some others or sand the ones on the car down.

roverbarmy
14th March 2015, 15:53
Proper tool?

Isn't it just a deep socket?


Yes. A deep socket is the correct tool. Hopefully, the nut isn't wedged against the stop or they can be a real pain to release.
Mike

planenut
14th March 2015, 17:05
The long reach socket is only a few pounds, that will solve the lever end of the matter. Make sure that the base of the shoe will fit and pivot in the lower part of the mounting before worrying about the spring, ensure it sits all the way in.
Judging by the state of the old shoes, (how did it pass the previous ten tests?), there will be as suggested, a ridge inside the drum to be ground down first.
good luck.

gazcon
14th March 2015, 18:39
Thanks for all the replies gents, great response as usual, much appreciated.

So these are the shoes I bought:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3006100012...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300610001297?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Compared to (what's left of) the old ones, as said above they do look a bit thick, and the recess where the shoe meets the adjuster is a bit shallow.

I went for a 30 mile round trip to the nearest Halfords to fetch the "proper tool", a 13mm deep socket, only to find that it wasn't deep enough and still wouldn't reach the nut on the handbrake lever :duh:

So resorting to some large pliers, I've managed to slacken off the nut on the handbrake lever from around 2.8cm of thread showing to now around 1.5cm of thread.

It's now much easier to get the discs on. However it needs to slacken off a bit more really. Will continue tomorrow, when hopefully the deep socket will now be able to reach the nut, it being that much nearer the end of the thread.

I always find when I do a particular job for the first time it's a complete bark. I'll be able to do this much quicker next time (which is handy, as with me, my wife and my Dad we're trying to keep 3 of these cars on the road!).

I'm not sure how it passed the last MOT. We've only had it since November. It's an automatic, so doesn't rely on the handbrake to hold it in everyday use, but there's no way that handbrake could have reached the required 16% (or whatever it is).

Thanks again :bowdown:

planenut
14th March 2015, 18:45
At least you are now well on the way.

Heddy
14th March 2015, 19:22
It's worth noting that the spikey nut on the top adjuster moves the shoes out to touch the drum at the TOP. The handbrake nut moves the shoes out to touch the drum at the BOTTOM. So, after first moving the top adjuster to just touch the shoes on the drum, the handbrake nut then moves the shoes out to give an even contact around the drum.

COLVERT
14th March 2015, 19:57
had the same the linings are to thick i managed to get the drum on but then the wheel would not turn.in the end i got unipart ones that where fine the others are still in the shed.you will have to get some others or sand the ones on the car down.

If that was the problem you wouldn't sand them down. Much too difficult. You'd just make the notch at the end slightly deeper.--:eek:

roverbarmy
14th March 2015, 20:44
As an aside, have you checked the compensator for stretching? :shrug: (info on measurements etc. available via search facility) The handbrake lever adjusting nut is usually over adjusted when the compensator is goosed. There is a how to on the method and a couple of suppliers of modded compensators on the forum.
Mike

rovertone
14th March 2015, 21:07
I have just replaced my handbrake shoes and couldn't get the disc back on no matter how I tried to centralise the shoes. My problem was that although the slots in the expander at the bottom looked to be located in the slots in the shoes in actual fact one side hadn't quite seated, i levered around with a screwdriver and 'ping' it only moved a fraction but that's all it took, disc went on easily.

crofts
15th March 2015, 02:40
Those linings do look quite thick. They are not from a V8 or something are they? Also have you got a rust ridge around the edge of the drum? Try removing it with some coarse sandpaper

My thought as well as the normal linings are quite thin. However, comparing them to the one removed would indicate they are a similar thickness. Stumped I'm afraid !

Arctic
15th March 2015, 09:07
If you do have the wrong ones which from the photo they look the same, go for these below ;)

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Rover_75_2.0_2004/p/car-parts/brakes/brake-friction/handbrake-shoes/?103750618&1&8543c116104b8edb40a22e9bea439b03ee5cb79d&000420

As already stated back the front adjuster nut off, flush with the end of the thread make sure the shoes are central offer the drum up to the axle and see if it fits.

Remember you need to turn the knurled nut just so the drum fits on and turns with out drag, once on reset the front adjuster so 25mm of thread is showing from the top of the adjuster nut hope it works out for you today

gazcon
16th March 2015, 10:54
Thanks again for all the replies. Got up bright and early yesterday, wound off the nut at the lever (much easier now the deep socket could actually reach it), new discs went on with no problems, tightened nut back up to around 2.5cm, took it for a spin.

The handbrake now holds the car when in Drive, and on a slight slope (living in Norfolk, not easy to find anything other than a slight slope). However it only does so on 6 or 7 clicks. My feeling is that this should be enough to see it through the MOT, but that it will need the compensator doing to get it working properly. The wife's driving it the next few days, but will see if any further adjustment is required before the MOT.

All good experience. My dad's tourer is also an automatic with a similarly non-existent handbrake, so I suspect I'll be doing this again in the not too distant!

Thanks again.