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Any tips to access the master?
After getting side-tracked on various other bits I'm finally getting round to the master cylinder.
Who decided to put the darned thing here! :devil: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...98ddf946c6.jpg https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...98ddf5d49f.jpg I can just about reach the white cap with two fingers but that's about it! Post 3 here has the following HowTo involving a long screwdriver and a Gunson Eezibleed. Quote:
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You don't have to use a bleed kit you can do it the old fashioned way. I use a vacuum pump because it is easier and I have one. :}
Also got the GhettoTech easy fill and level indicator fitted currently, as the fluid level has been dropping of late. Looks like it is time to replace the slave cylinder again. https://i.imgur.com/dSWveDO.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/VJ7yNxP.jpg?1 |
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And a link to the GhettoTech? |
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The easibleed is...well easy and singlehanded. Overall I think it's quicker and will put through more fluid in a more controlled way. As said you could do the old fashioned way and with 2 of you. But it's a nause, tightening the nipple, plopping a few mm into the cylinder yada, yada, yada. Frenchmike pioneered the reverse bleed. Worth a search |
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Hand-...kAAOSwyyZdoCK2 As for the GhettoTech I just use the term for anything made up from scrap and bits laying around the garage. Made a few bits and pieces over the years to help with working on our cars. Here's a puller for removing a seized gear linkage from a Freelander. I made the right hand G clamp over 40 years ago during my apprenticeship. :eek: https://i.imgur.com/lC8az7h.jpg?1 A universal cam wheel holder: https://i.imgur.com/ZNLjtao.jpg?1 And a diesel injector leakback kit: https://i.imgur.com/opfthD0.jpg?1 |
Must admit, having done it a few times, I never struggled with it, but I suspect the reverse bleed is probably easier....
Reverse bleed is pumping fluid in from the slave bleed nipple end, so it comes out at the master. The top needs to be removed and the carpet well covered against the overflow of fluid. You can buy very large syringes to do it this, and adapt them with a bit of rubber pipe. The method I have always used, the normal method - is a large syringe and a long tube down into the master to keep it topped up, as the system is bled. I use a length of wood and a hammer, to gently tap the master cap loose and then make a large hole in the middle of the rubber condom, as it no longer serves much purpose. |
Pump into MC and out through gold connector?
Thanks for the advice & info chaps - all duly noted. :bowdown:
I haven't got a bleed nipple because it's on the slave, which isn't connected yet* - so I can't pump fluid back up the bleed pipe to the master cylinder. (* The gearbox is still out because it was easier to replace the brake pipes without it.) All I've got is this gold connector on the end of the MC outlet pipe: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...aec932f118.jpg https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...aec939281a.jpg So it seems to me the best thing to do is hook a Gunson Eezibleed up to the MC and force all the old fluid out via the gold connector. What do you all think? Btw, I've already got a Sealey VS820 which could be used instead of a Gunson. It doesn't need a spare tyre but it has this chunky metal attachment which will need more clearance above & around the MC to get it screwed on. https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...afdb674419.jpg I reckon it needs 6cm clearance above the MC and around 7.5cm to the side. Hmm. :shrug: |
Sorry only a quick reply...heading out.
I think frenchmike or maybe Mike Noc(?) Knocked up something from the the old slave cylinder. Cut the two pipes and joins the connector and the nipple into one. |
I would like to add a real bright l led torch with a magnet so you can fasten it in different locations under the dash and put something on your left arm to cover your wrists.
A small elbow support bandage is ideal. And a bucket near by to kick now and then if it's your first time |
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