how do i bleed zt clutch

[bry68lufc]

i have tried to bleed the clutch but im getting no where and its now doing my head in lol is there a proper detailed how to anywhere that anyone knows about

[RPWC]

How to bleed the clutch here you go.

[steve 135+]

Originally Posted by bry68lufc

i have tried to bleed the clutch but im getting no where and its now doing my head in lol is there a proper detailed how to anywhere that anyone knows about

Hi this is my little 'how to'
Gunson Eezibleed from Halfords £20

1 Bleeding kit (above is best)
2 1 long (10 to 12 in) flat ended screwdriver
3 1 empty plastic bottle
4 1 12mm spanner
5 1 8mm spanner
6 1 good light or torch
7 1 little mirror
8 1 foot pump or compressor (this is for the kit as it works from your spare tyre)
9 1 syringe
10 some old rags/towels and a roll a of kitchen paper

How to, first remove engine top cover, you will see the slave cylinder bleed nipple on the end of a black pipe just above the gearbox, first put the 8mm ring spanner onto nipple then put one of the plastic tubes (out of the kit) on to the bleed nipple and the other end into the plastic bottle, to collect old fluid.

Now inside the car, first thing is to remove the trim, unscrew the two screws just at each side of the diagnostics port, then the two big plastic screws one at the back of the accelerator pedal and the other between the brake and clutch pedal.

Now remove the under trim, you will see that the trim just under the steering column is loose give this a pull and it will come away (held on with 3 clips) now with your torch and on your back look up above the clutch pedal you will see the master cylinder with a little reservoir on top with a white cap, at this time place the old rags/towels around the bottom of the clutch pedal area.

Take the long screwdriver and pushing the side of the cap unscrewing it, remove cap, now there’s a little rubber condom inside the reservoir remove this (do-not cut this as some will say to do, there’s no need) now follow the instructions with the kit (easy).

When bleeding the system put a full bottle of fluid through, this will replace all of the old fluid and any contaminants in the system.

When replacing the rubber condom now put loads of kitchen paper around the clutch pedal and under the master cylinder, using your torch and little mirror if you use the syringe with a plastic tube on the end and empty the reservoir a little, about 10 to 20cc.

Replace the rubber condom and cap using long screwdriver to tighten (do-not over tighten) you can mop up any fluid spills, refit trim/engine cover, job done good luck, Steve.

[bry68lufc]

Originally Posted by steve 135+

Hi this is my little 'how to'
Gunson Eezibleed from Halfords £20

1 Bleeding kit (above is best)
2 1 long (10 to 12 in) flat ended screwdriver
3 1 empty plastic bottle
4 1 12mm spanner
5 1 8mm spanner
6 1 good light or torch
7 1 little mirror
8 1 foot pump or compressor (this is for the kit as it works from your spare tyre)
9 1 syringe
10 some old rags/towels and a roll a of kitchen paper

How to, first remove engine top cover, you will see the slave cylinder bleed nipple on the end of a black pipe just above the gearbox, first put the 8mm ring spanner onto nipple then put one of the plastic tubes (out of the kit) on to the bleed nipple and the other end into the plastic bottle, to collect old fluid.

Now inside the car, first thing is to remove the trim, unscrew the two screws just at each side of the diagnostics port, then the two big plastic screws one at the back of the accelerator pedal and the other between the brake and clutch pedal.

Now remove the under trim, you will see that the trim just under the steering column is loose give this a pull and it will come away (held on with 3 clips) now with your torch and on your back look up above the clutch pedal you will see the master cylinder with a little reservoir on top with a white cap, at this time place the old rags/towels around the bottom of the clutch pedal area.

Take the long screwdriver and pushing the side of the cap unscrewing it, remove cap, now there’s a little rubber condom inside the reservoir remove this (do-not cut this as some will say to do, there’s no need) now follow the instructions with the kit (easy).

When bleeding the system put a full bottle of fluid through, this will replace all of the old fluid and any contaminants in the system.

When replacing the rubber condom now put loads of kitchen paper around the clutch pedal and under the master cylinder, using your torch and little mirror if you use the syringe with a plastic tube on the end and empty the reservoir a little, about 10 to 20cc.

Replace the rubber condom and cap using long screwdriver to tighten (do-not over tighten) you can mop up any fluid spills, refit trim/engine cover, job done good luck, Steve.

have tried it today and have put almost a litre of fluid through the system so the old stuff has gone the problem i had was with the lid off the cylinder the pedal wont return now the lids on it returns but doesnt feel like there is a clutch il put battery n airbox back and try it if not then at least i know can get at bleed nipple with engine cover removed so il try again thanks for that

[steve 135+]

Originally Posted by bry68lufc

have tried it today and have put almost a litre of fluid through the system so the old stuff has gone the problem i had was with the lid off the cylinder the pedal wont return now the lids on it returns but doesnt feel like there is a clutch il put battery n airbox back and try it if not then at least i know can get at bleed nipple with engine cover removed so il try again thanks for that

Hi first thing, your clutch pedal should be in the up position all the time you are bleeding the system, even with the cap off the pedal should be normal after bleeding.

The only thing i can advise is to check the following,
1 Master cylinder push rod is connected and not leaking, there is a return valve built into the cylinder, this could have failed.
2 Slave cylinder, very difficult to check if it's leaking, as if the cylinder is leaking only a every small amount of fluid this will not show under the gearbox, they only show leaking fluid when they have completely failed.
3 When bleeding do-not let any air into the system.
4 Check the union joint for signs of fluid leaks.

If you find any of the above, you will have to replace the part that's faulty, you are using a power bleeder? and not bleeding the system by pumping the pedal, as sometimes this does not work very well, Steve

[bry68lufc]

Originally Posted by steve 135+

Hi first thing, your clutch pedal should be in the up position all the time you are bleeding the system, even with the cap off the pedal should be normal after bleeding.

The only thing i can advise is to check the following,
1 Master cylinder push rod is connected and not leaking, there is a return valve built into the cylinder, this could have failed.
2 Slave cylinder, very difficult to check if it's leaking, as if the cylinder is leaking only a every small amount of fluid this will not show under the gearbox, they only show leaking fluid when they have completely failed.
3 When bleeding do-not let any air into the system.
4 Check the union joint for signs of fluid leaks.

If you find any of the above, you will have to replace the part that's faulty, you are using a power bleeder? and not bleeding the system by pumping the pedal, as sometimes this does not work very well, Steve

its a new clutch and slave thats gone on it also the anti judder part and theres no leaks from anywhere only thing is im probs letting in air this has to be the worst system ever ive been trying to bleed it for a day and half now petrol and matches are looking really good now lol

[dissy1810]

Originally Posted by bry68lufc

its a new clutch and slave thats gone on it also the anti judder part and theres no leaks from anywhere only thing is im probs letting in air this has to be the worst system ever ive been trying to bleed it for a day and half now petrol and matches are looking really good now lol

take out the anti judder thing it doesn't work anyway it only makes the system much harder to bleed and drops the biting point almost to the floor i was on for a few hours when i put the anti judder bit in my car when i took it out and connected the other pipes back together it was perfect and did not even need bleeding again
i hope this helps
steve

[bry68lufc]

Originally Posted by dissy1810

take out the anti judder thing it doesn't work anyway it only makes the system much harder to bleed and drops the biting point almost to the floor i was on for a few hours when i put the anti judder bit in my car when i took it out and connected the other pipes back together it was perfect and did not even need bleeding again
i hope this helps
steve

lol il give it a go then at the moment i can put it in and out of gear with no use of the pedal so il whip the anti judder off n try that cheers

[steve 135+]

Originally Posted by bry68lufc

its a new clutch and slave thats gone on it also the anti judder part and theres no leaks from anywhere only thing is im probs letting in air this has to be the worst system ever ive been trying to bleed it for a day and half now petrol and matches are looking really good now lol

Are you saying that the complete clutch is new, inc both cylinders? and it was the slave that failed before replacement.

This anti judder device! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-M...d=252532006226 is it this add on? if so remove it, it's about as much use as a chocolate fire guard, this could be your problem with bleeding, clutch judder most commonly comes from an out of spec DMF and knacked lower engine mount.

I have bled a few clutch systems and had no problems at all, with take your time with it, bleed it very slowly, less chance of air getting into the system, you didn't say weather you used the kit from Halford's or not??

[bry68lufc]

just removed it and now have clutch thanks guys...now the problem is my car doesnt lock from the key fob since battery has been reconnected any ideas on that its not battery as its a newish one