Lower suspension arms-replacement

[RN3212]

In a word Yes but the balljoint that goes into the subframe is a nightmare to shift.Try to get the car lifted as high as possible so you can get a good whack at it with a BIG hammer.Coat the end of the Wishbone with Washing up Liquid and it will slip into the Bush without any bother.

[BT@Home]

Hmm, one yes, with a stubborn balljoint, and one tough to do without taking off the back bush.

[Couchwarrior]

I am struggling getting the lower arms released off the hub. I have the bolts out and a trolley jack under the disc lifting it up slightly and I am hitting the arm with an hammer, its about 10 mm out on one but wont shift any more. I must be missing something here ?? I have to crack the arms as I am doing a clutch but one ball joint does need replacing. I am thinking now I may buy two new arms and bushes rather than just replacing the one arm, seeing as it all in bits
But the ****** things wont release. If I break the other joint in the centre of the arm will the bottom one come away easier ?
Getting close to getting the grinder out now lol

[bl52krz]

Originally Posted by Couchwarrior

I am struggling getting the lower arms released off the hub. I have the bolts out and a trolley jack under the disc lifting it up slightly and I am hitting the arm with an hammer, its about 10 mm out on one but wont shift any more. I must be missing something here ?? I have to crack the arms as I am doing a clutch but one ball joint does need replacing. I am thinking now I may buy two new arms and bushes rather than just replacing the one arm, seeing as it all in bits
But the ****** things wont release. If I break the other joint in the centre of the arm will the bottom one come away easier ?
Getting close to getting the grinder out now lol

To get the lower arm off the subframe, just jack it up and put a hard wooden block under the bolt , with the nut attached, make sure the bolt is about 1inch above block, and then drop the jack quickly onto the block of (hard) wood, and it should break the bolt from the subframe.You can use a lump of metal instead of wood if you like.

[Couchwarrior]

Originally Posted by bl52krz

To get the lower arm off the subframe, just jack it up and put a hard wooden block under the bolt , with the nut attached, make sure the bolt is about 1inch above block, and then drop the jack quickly onto the block of (hard) wood, and it should break the bolt from the subframe.You can use a lump of metal instead of wood if you like.

Haven't got to that joint yet, still trying to release it from the hub

[Unclefista]

Try moving the steering to full lock and have a go, I was once braying a balljoint for ages and a passer by gave me this tip.
It more or less fell off after

[Couchwarrior]

Originally Posted by Unclefista

Try moving the steering to full lock and have a go, I was once braying a balljoint for ages and a passer by gave me this tip.
It more or less fell off after

I have tried moving it manually either side.... bit of an issue with using steering as there is no track rod end on that side that is getting replaced as well, seems like its just a case of hitting it as much as possible

[Dashiel]

Whacking it didn't do anything in my experience.
My wishbones were 10 years old and 109K on them.
Try using something stout as a lever to get between the arm and the subframe right beside the balljoint. Trolley jack up on your lever and that does it.
Perseverance pays off with this job, don't give up.
Obviously the pros use a lift and a 4 foot suspension claw to do the same thing, we just have to improvise and use the weight of the car to compensate for the lack of any space to get a decent lever on the arm.

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Couchwarrior

I have tried moving it manually either side.... bit of an issue with using steering as there is no track rod end on that side that is getting replaced as well, seems like its just a case of hitting it as much as possible

When I first had trouble splitting the lower hub balljoint I made up some spacers of various thicknesses that were slightly smaller in diameter to the balljoint thread.

Placed one on top of the balljoint shaft and used a screwdriver and crowbar to force the balljoint down by wedging against the hub itself. As the shaft dropped I added more spacers so the top one was always proud of the top of the hub.

Used this method a few times now and had no problems.

Mike

[chris75]

Originally Posted by Couchwarrior

I have the bolts out and a trolley jack under the disc lifting it up slightly and I am hitting the arm with an hammer, its about 10 mm out on one but wont shift any more.

Two more things to try
Have you tried spreading the "jaws" on the hub housing by tapping a chisel into the split ? If the pin has moved 10mm , you really are nearly there !
Another method is to position a stout tube under the subframe at the inner end and passing under the ball joint and then projecting out from under the car to act as a long lever.The tube needs to be a metre or so long, and the hub needs to be supported with block of wood etc. Tie the tube to the lower arm with chain or strong rope , and then apply serious downward force onto the outer "free" end of the tube by leaning on it with both hands or stamping on it with a foot . This has always worked for me by shocking the ball joint pin free