Rover 75 wont go into gear - Page 2

RPWC · 29th December 2012, 21:45

Mick,if you get the part yourself get this one http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clutch-s...0g-p-1055.html. It's cheaper than the Rover part,and uses metal pipes ,rather than plastic. Clutch kit is also the same fit,but master cylinder has to be Rover part,as Freelander is totally different. Labour costs expect to pay about £200+ vat,. I had mine done at a local garage for £150 cash. So you could try that approach,but you won't get a bill or guarantee for the labour.

Trophy Blue Tourer · 30th December 2012, 10:12

Try this!

Remove master cylinder cap!! (the one behind the clutch pedal!!

)
Remove the rubber seal/condom ! you will see why it's called that when its out!! -half fill the master cylinder with brake/clutch fluid!! operate the pedal by hand for a few strokes!! leave 4/5 seconds between strokes and tap the master cylinder while your waiting to encourage any air bubbles to detach from the cylinder wall - the master cylinder is mounted sloping down so as soon as the air gets in there you will lose the clutch!! filling it and doing the above will enable it to self bleed through the feed hole from the reservoir and restore clutch operation!!

NOTE !! before anybody yells at me!! this will only work if you have a small/slow leak!! - if the slave has compleatly popped then it doesn't!!

However I did this for something close to 2 1/2 years and 40k miles before my slave finally went!! it needed topping up every 1500 miles or so (although it could and did vary quite a lot depending on both the use and type of driving I was doing!

)

This just might save you laying out quite a lot of money right here and now and possibly for some time!! (see above!!)

It should only take 15 mins the first time and I got so I could do it in 5mins in the dark with out a torch!! - ask Petetourer!! - he timmied me once!! LOL!

The secret is to kneel by the car and use your left hand!! a syringe is the easyest way to do it!! bit of washer pipe on it and a bit of bent coat hanger in the pipe to enable the pipe to hook over the edge!

Cut off most of the condom if it works to fill the thing right up and use the edge of the condom as a seal when you replace the cap!! - this will give you more time between top ups!

If nothing else this might (hopefully) enable you to get to the garage!! it might last months (in my case years!!) or not!!

At any rate it's got to be worth a try no??

HTH??

Andy

P.S !! if the clutch fluid is dripping out of the lower edge of the bell housing drain holes your probably going to struggle!!

mickm1 · 30th December 2012, 15:16

Thanks for all replys and help

Is it most likely then that it is the slave cylinder that is causing the problem? From the symptmns i have described i mean.

Just so i can purchase the part listeed. Just in case the mechanic says its the master thats gone.

The same rover garage who charged me best part of £400 for replacing my in tank fuel pump... and it was a 2nd hand one

FrenchMike · 30th December 2012, 15:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickm1

Thanks for all replys and help

Is it most likely then that it is the slave cylinder that is causing the problem? From the symptmns i have described i mean.

Just so i can purchase the part listeed. Just in case the mechanic says its the master thats gone.

The same rover garage who charged me best part of £400 for replacing my in tank fuel pump... and it was a 2nd hand one

Hi Mick,

An advice,for peace of mind ,have Slave AND Master changed at the same time..

Mike

Leyland Worldmaster · 30th December 2012, 16:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickm1

Cheers m8

Is it easy enough to bleed so i can get it to a garage?

Thanks for all replys

Mick

Hi Mick good luck getting it done. Mine went in the summer. This was my slave cylinder...

jonathan63 · 31st December 2012, 09:52

Mick,
As I mentioned earlier in this thread I am in the same boat as you except that Im handy with the scanners.
I am going to try Trophy Blue Tourer Andy's method first.

But, Mick, you need to change garages. £400 to change an ITP sounds like a lot to me. Cant remember exactly how long it took me when I did mine, but it was less than an hour.

GJBridge · 31st December 2012, 10:52

I had exactly this issue yesterday, found an old thread giving the same method from Trophy Blue Tourer above.
As I didn't have a syringe (where do you buy a syringe from??) I used a small narrow 'trigger spray' bottle and hooked the nozzle into the reservoir (with left hand) then used one finger of right hand to gently squirt.
Third hand would have been useful to hold torch!!
It is very tight in there if you've big hands.

jonathan63 · 31st December 2012, 11:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by GJBridge

I had exactly this issue yesterday, found an old thread giving the same method from Trophy Blue Tourer above.
As I didn't have a syringe (where do you buy a syringe from??) I used a small narrow 'trigger spray' bottle and hooked the nozzle into the reservoir (with left hand) then used one finger of right hand to gently squirt.
Third hand would have been useful to hold torch!!
It is very tight in there if you've big hands.

Just done mine the TBT Andy way.
I used a syringe from a Tesco printer ink refil pack bt SWIMBO says you can get them from a chemist shop. And SWIMBO knows EVERTYTHING; so she tells me.

There was no rubber condom on mine when i unswrewed the top. Is this a problem??
It was emplty by BTW. Its full now but there is still no pedal presure.

GJBridge · 31st December 2012, 12:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathan63

Just done mine the TBT Andy way.
I used a syringe from a Tesco printer ink refil pack bt SWIMBO says you can get them from a chemist shop. And SWIMBO knows EVERTYTHING; so she tells me.

There was no rubber condom on mine when i unswrewed the top. Is this a problem??
It was emplty by BTW. Its full now but there is still no pedal presure.

The 'condom' goes down into the reservoir, and is about 1" deep. You can't really see it given the location!!
It should be there - if it is then all you have done is fill it up not the actual reservoir, so no pedal pressure.
Take the screw cap off, and 'roll' your finger over the edge, you should feel the rubber lip/seal. If it is in place, and you have filled it, either remove, or puncture it with a knife point to let fluid run into cylinder.
Replace screw top and give pedal a couple of presses, and you should feel some pressure.
If 'condom' isn't there and you're getting no pressure after filling, it would suggest a major leak.

jonathan63 · 31st December 2012, 14:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by GJBridge

The 'condom' goes down into the reservoir, and is about 1" deep. You can't really see it given the location!!
It should be there - if it is then all you have done is fill it up not the actual reservoir, so no pedal pressure.
Take the screw cap off, and 'roll' your finger over the edge, you should feel the rubber lip/seal. If it is in place, and you have filled it, either remove, or puncture it with a knife point to let fluid run into cylinder.
Replace screw top and give pedal a couple of presses, and you should feel some pressure.
If 'condom' isn't there and you're getting no pressure after filling, it would suggest a major leak.

i thought, when i typed that, that i might have filled on top of the condom.
When i get back home ill syphon it back out and start again.

29th December 2012, 21:45	#11
RPWC This is my second home 75 model car Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne Posts: 20,177 Thanks: 4,008 Thanked 5,083 Times in 3,114 Posts	Mick,if you get the part yourself get this one http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clutch-s...0g-p-1055.html. It's cheaper than the Rover part,and uses metal pipes ,rather than plastic. Clutch kit is also the same fit,but master cylinder has to be Rover part,as Freelander is totally different. Labour costs expect to pay about £200+ vat,. I had mine done at a local garage for £150 cash. So you could try that approach,but you won't get a bill or guarantee for the labour. __________________ Cheers. Rich…

30th December 2012, 10:12	#12
Trophy Blue Tourer Gets stuck in MG ZT-T Trophy Blue CDTI Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 883 Thanks: 11 Thanked 25 Times in 18 Posts	Try this! Remove master cylinder cap!! (the one behind the clutch pedal!!) Remove the rubber seal/condom ! you will see why it's called that when its out!! -half fill the master cylinder with brake/clutch fluid!! operate the pedal by hand for a few strokes!! leave 4/5 seconds between strokes and tap the master cylinder while your waiting to encourage any air bubbles to detach from the cylinder wall - the master cylinder is mounted sloping down so as soon as the air gets in there you will lose the clutch!! filling it and doing the above will enable it to self bleed through the feed hole from the reservoir and restore clutch operation!! NOTE !! before anybody yells at me!! this will only work if you have a small/slow leak!! - if the slave has compleatly popped then it doesn't!! However I did this for something close to 2 1/2 years and 40k miles before my slave finally went!! it needed topping up every 1500 miles or so (although it could and did vary quite a lot depending on both the use and type of driving I was doing!) This just might save you laying out quite a lot of money right here and now and possibly for some time!! (see above!!) It should only take 15 mins the first time and I got so I could do it in 5mins in the dark with out a torch!! - ask Petetourer!! - he timmied me once!! LOL! The secret is to kneel by the car and use your left hand!! a syringe is the easyest way to do it!! bit of washer pipe on it and a bit of bent coat hanger in the pipe to enable the pipe to hook over the edge! Cut off most of the condom if it works to fill the thing right up and use the edge of the condom as a seal when you replace the cap!! - this will give you more time between top ups! If nothing else this might (hopefully) enable you to get to the garage!! it might last months (in my case years!!) or not!! At any rate it's got to be worth a try no?? HTH?? Andy P.S !! if the clutch fluid is dripping out of the lower edge of the bell housing drain holes your probably going to struggle!!

31st December 2012, 10:52	#17
GJBridge Gets stuck in 75 Contemp SE Tourer CDTi Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Ashton Keynes, Wilts Posts: 717 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	I had exactly this issue yesterday, found an old thread giving the same method from Trophy Blue Tourer above. As I didn't have a syringe (where do you buy a syringe from??) I used a small narrow 'trigger spray' bottle and hooked the nozzle into the reservoir (with left hand) then used one finger of right hand to gently squirt. Third hand would have been useful to hold torch!! It is very tight in there if you've big hands. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Guy

30th December 2012, 15:16	#13
mickm1 Loves to post MG ZT & Rover 75 Facelift models in Pearlescent Black Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Glasgow Posts: 391 Thanks: 109 Thanked 60 Times in 49 Posts	Thanks for all replys and help Is it most likely then that it is the slave cylinder that is causing the problem? From the symptmns i have described i mean. Just so i can purchase the part listeed. Just in case the mechanic says its the master thats gone. The same rover garage who charged me best part of £400 for replacing my in tank fuel pump... and it was a 2nd hand one

31st December 2012, 09:52	#16
jonathan63 This is my second home CDTi Conniosseur SE HLNav Tourer and a Personal Line CDT Conniosseur SE Tourer..for the time being. Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cumbria Posts: 3,639 Thanks: 340 Thanked 423 Times in 294 Posts	Mick, As I mentioned earlier in this thread I am in the same boat as you except that Im handy with the scanners. I am going to try Trophy Blue Tourer Andy's method first. But, Mick, you need to change garages. £400 to change an ITP sounds like a lot to me. Cant remember exactly how long it took me when I did mine, but it was less than an hour.