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2nd July 2020, 22:36 | #91 |
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bundle
looks like from your photo you have the landrover cruise ecu not the OO190 valeo version. there are a couple of versions on the bay now. maybe they are the same pinouts or maybe not ... just a thought.....
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2nd July 2020, 22:44 | #92 | |
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Quote:
Dougie. |
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2nd July 2020, 23:23 | #93 |
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ah ok. just a thought . been following the thread... enjoyed it !! the scb100190 is a hella i think not a valeo as i previously said. maybe its the pump thats valeo. glad its almost sorted. well worth it i think as from what i have seen of the car from the pictures shes a beauty. .... regards xsport
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3rd July 2020, 00:09 | #94 | |
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Quote:
Dougie. |
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3rd July 2020, 12:09 | #95 |
Doesn't do things by halves
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Diagram correction
Now that the investigation is drawing to a close, it's worth noting that the labels for the two halves of the brake switch are incorrect in the above drawing.
MarinaBrian's T4 screenshots (post no. 31) tell us that the correct labelling is:
Simon
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3rd July 2020, 13:46 | #96 |
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i have the rover 75 kv6 2.5 auto with cruise. 2001 year. mine had the original brake switch from new (dont have details as i discarded it) when my brake switch packed up last year i needed a replacement and looked at past threads and was told the xkb000022A was the only one that works now on the autos. that switch i was told would also work on the manuals. xkb000022 was only for the manual brake and clutch. whatever the truth is it worked for me no problems. same cruise and interface parts i presume. no doubt you will eventually find the right combination if not..... happy hunting !
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3rd July 2020, 14:07 | #97 | ||
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I collected the replacement SCB100201 cruise interface this morning and fitted it after disconnecting the bypass wiring I successfully tried yesterday at message #82 above. There is still no voltage on C0895-9, so obviously the interface is inhibiting the 12v output to the ECU due to another element. The brake switch remains the chief suspect as previously discussed.
I removed the non-working C0895-9 feed to C0239-1 and instead of connecting a spurious 12v feed to C0239-1 as I did yesterday, I used the master switch C0749-5 output as it made sense to control everything from the same switch. Alas, instead of the IPK light coming on and cruise working as before, when I pressed the set/accelerate paddle, it flashed once and the horn sounded. Thereafter, it was dead until I stopped, switched off the engine & restarted when it repeated that behaviour. I removed the C0749-5 supply and reconnected the separate feed to C0239-1 as per yesterday. Everything worked again. Tried the switched feed one more time but just got the flash 'n' toot followed by nothingness (presumably because the ECU errored out and did what it's supposed to do until it's restarted and cleared). Quote:
Quote:
Dougie. |
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3rd July 2020, 15:01 | #98 |
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yes it was. just been on rimmers and they list a brake switch blue XKB000090 with the application as for cruise control but with the caveat of serial numbers from 5d345692 CP type - vin. onwards . other than that theres just the normal XKB000022A. i bet you are not relishing that brake light switch change but if your vin is in that group it could well be the one you need .
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3rd July 2020, 15:06 | #99 | |
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Your wiring will have been different to mine then, which was wired completely without any cruise elements including some headers.
Quote:
Well indeed I'm not because I'm not changing it. Dougie. Last edited by goltho; 3rd July 2020 at 15:29.. |
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3rd July 2020, 16:33 | #100 |
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dont blame you for that ! i left my seat in and draped my legs up and over the top (without headrest of course ) in the back and shoulders to the floor configuration as it were . just thinking are you sure that the interlock is not a pre requisit check before the engine ecu will deliver the 12v required along with the abs signal ? who knows . also you must have got the plugs for the interface and cruise ecu with the bundle. did it have the tails and you hardwired onto them ? have you double checked that 12v from the engine ecu is actually getting through at the pins.you could recheck against the readings on the other plugs to compare. it wouldnt take much for it to drop below with a not too good contact may be it needs pretty much the full wack to trigger the cruise (safety reasons) ? cant see you having 2 faulty units . i had a similar problem once to green buildup on a door plug once although i couldnt see a problem visually checking. sometimes we overlook the obvious but im not trying to be disrespectfull in any way as i can tell that you are more than competent. .. just trying to save your knuckle joints from more abrasion !!!
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