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23rd March 2021, 18:54 | #11 |
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Still unresolved.
Good evening and thank you again to all of you who have helped with this issue. The latest position is that I visited the mechanic today and he tried a number of options for achieving clutch pressure. This included backfilling from the brass-coloured connector to the master cylinder, topping up the line through the slave before bleeding and topping up the master cylinder reservoir under pressure. Given that he has previously installed a new master cylinder, in addition to an earlier pre-used unit, we both feel we need to enlist help and expertise. My request is please can anyone recommend a member and/or Rover 75 specialist who could visit the workshop in South Birmingham for final (paid) diagnosis/action on the master cylinder? |
23rd March 2021, 19:32 | #12 |
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From what you've said in your last post you seem to have tried everything.
If really does seem to be failure of the slave cylinder. It does not always leak out of the bottom of the bell housing. However a leaking slave cylinder will be apparent by the master cylinder becoming empty very quickly. Difficult to check except with a mirror but with the rubber seal removed you should see, when pumping the clutch pedal, the level dropping quite quickly.--- |
23rd March 2021, 19:43 | #13 |
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Need a bit more information to make a diagnosis:
1 What happens when you press the clutch pedal - is there any resistance, or does it go to the floor? 2 Does it come back up again or do you have to pull it back up? 3 Are you losing any fluid? |
23rd March 2021, 20:08 | #14 | |
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Quote:
macafee2 |
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24th March 2021, 10:33 | #15 |
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Good morning and thank you all for your replies
The clutch failed at a set of traffic lights when the pedal went straight to the floor with no resistance at all as I tried to select first gear. We had stopped at another set of lights about 400 yards before and it had been difficult to get into gear. When initially looking at the car the mechanic saw no sign of a leak beneath the bellhousing but saw fluid on the footrest, investigated and changed the master cylinder. He could see that the black plastic pipe was weeping/leaking where it joined the master cylinder and there seemed no point in not replacing the unit while it was removed. The black plastic pipe has remained unchanged throughout the process although he has wondered if the brass coloured connector could be at fault. There is no resistance on the pedal at all and it remains stuck to the floor i.e. when pulled to the top and then pushed down it needs to be pulled back up again. There is no sign of any pressure developing when the pedal is pumped manually. I was surprised to see a lot of fluid running down the outside of the master cylinder when the pedal was pumped vigorously on one occasion. The question of whether it is losing fluid is more difficult to answer because he has tried bleeding it so often. While I was there yesterday he refilled the master cylinder twice after bleeding. When I left yesterday he felt he had tried everything and it must be the slave cylinder at fault. As a newcomer to using this, indeed any, forum I am amazed at how helpful you all are, especially as it must be frustrating because I am at the limit of my mechanical abilities trying to describe the issue(s) to you. |
24th March 2021, 15:38 | #16 |
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I am not sure if with the condom in the master cylinder and the cap screw tight if clutch fluid can escape from the master cylinder. Can anyone advise?
If you keep pumping the clutch pedal even if you have to pull it back up and the master cylinder is not empting then I would question if the slave has failed. If the slave has failed the fluid level in the master cylinder will go down. If an internal seal in the master has failed allowing clutch fluid to remain in the master cylinder then the master has failed. In a reply above it has been suggested that the quick release coupling half way along the hydraulic pipe is split and then the clutch pedal pushed as if trying to change gear. If the pedal will not go down and stays rigid for, I don't know a minute, without sinking to the floor then the master is ok. It is vital that you ascertain if the clutch fluid level is going down in the master cylinder when the hydraulic pipe is properly connected. Make sure the rubber (condom) has been put back into the top of the master cylinder and the cap screwed on tight not silly tight macafee2 |
24th March 2021, 19:30 | #17 |
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Quote;__Mac.I am not sure if with the condom in the master cylinder and the cap screw tight if clutch fluid can escape from the master cylinder. Can anyone advise?--
Yes it can escape. It will run out around the piston actuating seal and from there drip down into the foot well.--- |
24th March 2021, 21:15 | #18 |
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Thank you both for the very useful advice.
I'll call tomorrow and advise him to check the fluid level after pumping the pedal before making a final decision and also to check if there is any recent seepage in the area of the piston and seal above the footrest. |
24th March 2021, 22:03 | #19 | |
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Quote:
Thanks for the Information. Tell your mechanic to try Trikey's suggestion - disconnect the quick connection and then press the clutch pedal down. If the master cylinder is OK the pedal should lock in place. If the pedal goes to the floor the master cylinder is faulty or it hasn't been bled correctly.. If the master cylinder is OK then reconnect the pipe to the slave cylinder and pump the pedal repeatably. If you have no resistance and lose fluid doing this the fault is on the slave side. . Last edited by Mike Noc; 25th March 2021 at 05:49.. |
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25th March 2021, 18:50 | #20 | |
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