Lower suspension arms-replacement

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by bl52krz

you do not need anything to pull the rear rubber bearing off.it will come off by pulling it off. should be a straight forward job to do apart from the two bolts on the rear bearing. please let us know how you get on.

getting the bush back on is easy, just use a bit of fairy liquid and it will slide right on. No tools needed

Be doing mine today also.

[JeffD]

That sounds great - I was going to buy a bearing puller. Take some photos and let me know how you get on - not sure whether I'm doing mine today - might let you be the guinnea pig! LOL

[dissy1810]

Originally Posted by BT@Home

Mine has failed with the balljoint being the culprit. Can the lower arm be removed with just the balljoints cracked?

It can but it is much easier to unbolt the rear bush also otherwise you'll be on hours trying to get the old wishbone out of the bush and the new one in I was and then I ended taking it all off again to replace the bush anyway

[BT@Home]

Hmm, one yes, with a stubborn balljoint, and one tough to do without taking off the back bush.

[Couchwarrior]

I am struggling getting the lower arms released off the hub. I have the bolts out and a trolley jack under the disc lifting it up slightly and I am hitting the arm with an hammer, its about 10 mm out on one but wont shift any more. I must be missing something here ?? I have to crack the arms as I am doing a clutch but one ball joint does need replacing. I am thinking now I may buy two new arms and bushes rather than just replacing the one arm, seeing as it all in bits
But the ****** things wont release. If I break the other joint in the centre of the arm will the bottom one come away easier ?
Getting close to getting the grinder out now lol

[bl52krz]

Originally Posted by Couchwarrior

I am struggling getting the lower arms released off the hub. I have the bolts out and a trolley jack under the disc lifting it up slightly and I am hitting the arm with an hammer, its about 10 mm out on one but wont shift any more. I must be missing something here ?? I have to crack the arms as I am doing a clutch but one ball joint does need replacing. I am thinking now I may buy two new arms and bushes rather than just replacing the one arm, seeing as it all in bits
But the ****** things wont release. If I break the other joint in the centre of the arm will the bottom one come away easier ?
Getting close to getting the grinder out now lol

To get the lower arm off the subframe, just jack it up and put a hard wooden block under the bolt , with the nut attached, make sure the bolt is about 1inch above block, and then drop the jack quickly onto the block of (hard) wood, and it should break the bolt from the subframe.You can use a lump of metal instead of wood if you like.

[Couchwarrior]

Originally Posted by bl52krz

To get the lower arm off the subframe, just jack it up and put a hard wooden block under the bolt , with the nut attached, make sure the bolt is about 1inch above block, and then drop the jack quickly onto the block of (hard) wood, and it should break the bolt from the subframe.You can use a lump of metal instead of wood if you like.

Haven't got to that joint yet, still trying to release it from the hub

[chris75]

Originally Posted by Couchwarrior

I have the bolts out and a trolley jack under the disc lifting it up slightly and I am hitting the arm with an hammer, its about 10 mm out on one but wont shift any more.

Two more things to try
Have you tried spreading the "jaws" on the hub housing by tapping a chisel into the split ? If the pin has moved 10mm , you really are nearly there !
Another method is to position a stout tube under the subframe at the inner end and passing under the ball joint and then projecting out from under the car to act as a long lever.The tube needs to be a metre or so long, and the hub needs to be supported with block of wood etc. Tie the tube to the lower arm with chain or strong rope , and then apply serious downward force onto the outer "free" end of the tube by leaning on it with both hands or stamping on it with a foot . This has always worked for me by shocking the ball joint pin free

[Dashiel]

If you are talking about the hub joint, then lots of 3 in 1 oil, keep wiggling hub left and right to work it in, chisel the gap as per before and if you have strong arms wiggling and pulling downwards worked for me. Oh and have something to support the hub when it is ofF like an old bucket turned upside down

[Arctic]

Another thread decimated by PB, if members come across these threads with the photo's blocked by PB, maybe post up then hopefully something could be done to restore them ?