Clutch issue

mark_bonsai · 18th May 2017, 21:25

Bit of advice needed guys.

Clutch replaced today along with slave and DMF. The latter was a second hand one with low mileage, but the clutch kit was new from DMGRS.

Fitment went without a hitch, but once everything was back together, the pedal bite point is very, very low, although nice and light.

So, I'd like your thoughts on whether you think bleeding the clutch will improve it, it needs a new master cylinder (still original at 142,000 miles) or something else.

EastPete · 19th May 2017, 08:22

Which clutch kit with which slave cylinder (LUK or Tazu all-metal) was fitted ? Any problems changing gears ?

Pete

mark_bonsai · 19th May 2017, 18:41

It's the kit supplied by DMGRS, so a Borg & Beck clutch and a Luk slave.

It changes gear fine but the clutch is fully engaged just off the carpet, so it's like a switch, off or on. Also noticed that the has no resistance for the top half of it's travel, only the return spring.

Didn't get chance to bleed it today, but I will in the morning.

EastPete · 19th May 2017, 19:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark_bonsai

It's the kit supplied by DMGRS, so a Borg & Beck clutch and a Luk slave.

It changes gear fine but the clutch is fully engaged just off the carpet, so it's like a switch, off or on. Also noticed that the has no resistance for the top half of it's travel, only the return spring.

Didn't get chance to bleed it today, but I will in the morning.

Might be an idea to bleed through the master to the quick fit connector before you bleed the whole system through - this might avoid crud and old fluid from the master contaminating your new slave.

Pete

Ross R75 · 19th May 2017, 21:56

This happened with mine. Not bled correctly and there's still air in the system. I used a vacuum bleeder and it was perfect afterwards.

bigblue75 · 19th May 2017, 22:02

While bleeding the clutch (through to quick connector first as suggested), may be worthwhile to remove and clean the pushrod and master cylinder as explained in post no.2 of this thread...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...leeding+clutch

There is a thread where French Mike has posted some useful pictures of the master, its location and its workings BUT I can't find it, sorry. Maybe someone else can oblige?

mark_bonsai · 20th May 2017, 19:50

Update. Spent half an hour this afternoon bleeding it. First separated the connector and bled just the master cylinder, which gave up some very grey fluid. Reconnected the master to the slave and bled through the whole system until fully clear. Success! Pedal is now back to where it should be. That said, the state of the fluid that initially came out would suggest some degradation of the master so will probably need changing in the near future.

Ravinder · 20th May 2017, 20:32

Glad it's fixed. When I got my clutch done, I don't think it was bled as my pedal was like yours. My friend kindly bled it for me and there was a lot of air in the system and the pedal is now a million times better.

FrenchMike · 20th May 2017, 21:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark_bonsai

Update. Spent half an hour this afternoon bleeding it. First separated the connector and bled just the master cylinder, which gave up some very grey fluid. Reconnected the master to the slave and bled through the whole system until fully clear. Success! Pedal is now back to where it should be. That said, the state of the fluid that initially came out would suggest some degradation of the master so will probably need changing in the near future.

Don't worry Mark,the grey grease comes from the slave seal lubrication

Mike

FrenchMike · 20th May 2017, 21:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigblue75

While bleeding the clutch (through to quick connector first as suggested), may be worthwhile to remove and clean the pushrod and master cylinder as explained in post no.2 of this thread...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...leeding+clutch

There is a thread where French Mike has posted some useful pictures of the master, its location and its workings BUT I can't find it, sorry. Maybe someone else can oblige?

Hi, see

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=238272

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=230625

Mike

18th May 2017, 21:25	#1
mark_bonsai I really should get out more....... Rover 75 CDT Saloon Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Lancaster Posts: 2,219 Thanks: 24 Thanked 39 Times in 39 Posts	Clutch issue Bit of advice needed guys. Clutch replaced today along with slave and DMF. The latter was a second hand one with low mileage, but the clutch kit was new from DMGRS. Fitment went without a hitch, but once everything was back together, the pedal bite point is very, very low, although nice and light. So, I'd like your thoughts on whether you think bleeding the clutch will improve it, it needs a new master cylinder (still original at 142,000 miles) or something else. __________________ Re-mapped. EGR bypass. De-catted. 18" Apex's. ZT190 brakes & suspension. Xenon projectors. Powerfold bullets. Electric rear sun blind. Auto dipping rear view mirror. Wood and leather steering wheel. Wood handbrake handle. Full leather sports seats. Harman Kardon speakers & sub. Navall 2 double din through 500w Kenwood amp. Fully chromed front grill.

19th May 2017, 18:41	#3
mark_bonsai I really should get out more....... Rover 75 CDT Saloon Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Lancaster Posts: 2,219 Thanks: 24 Thanked 39 Times in 39 Posts	It's the kit supplied by DMGRS, so a Borg & Beck clutch and a Luk slave. It changes gear fine but the clutch is fully engaged just off the carpet, so it's like a switch, off or on. Also noticed that the has no resistance for the top half of it's travel, only the return spring. Didn't get chance to bleed it today, but I will in the morning. __________________ Re-mapped. EGR bypass. De-catted. 18" Apex's. ZT190 brakes & suspension. Xenon projectors. Powerfold bullets. Electric rear sun blind. Auto dipping rear view mirror. Wood and leather steering wheel. Wood handbrake handle. Full leather sports seats. Harman Kardon speakers & sub. Navall 2 double din through 500w Kenwood amp. Fully chromed front grill.

19th May 2017, 21:56	#5
Ross R75 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 1,535 Thanks: 137 Thanked 229 Times in 156 Posts	This happened with mine. Not bled correctly and there's still air in the system. I used a vacuum bleeder and it was perfect afterwards. __________________ Copperleaf R75 CDT 160

19th May 2017, 22:02	#6
bigblue75 older not wiser 75 Tourer Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Falkirk Posts: 274 Thanks: 93 Thanked 46 Times in 35 Posts	While bleeding the clutch (through to quick connector first as suggested), may be worthwhile to remove and clean the pushrod and master cylinder as explained in post no.2 of this thread... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...leeding+clutch There is a thread where French Mike has posted some useful pictures of the master, its location and its workings BUT I can't find it, sorry. Maybe someone else can oblige? Last edited by bigblue75; 19th May 2017 at 22:04.. Reason: Precision

20th May 2017, 19:50	#7
mark_bonsai I really should get out more....... Rover 75 CDT Saloon Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Lancaster Posts: 2,219 Thanks: 24 Thanked 39 Times in 39 Posts	Update. Spent half an hour this afternoon bleeding it. First separated the connector and bled just the master cylinder, which gave up some very grey fluid. Reconnected the master to the slave and bled through the whole system until fully clear. Success! Pedal is now back to where it should be. That said, the state of the fluid that initially came out would suggest some degradation of the master so will probably need changing in the near future. __________________ Re-mapped. EGR bypass. De-catted. 18" Apex's. ZT190 brakes & suspension. Xenon projectors. Powerfold bullets. Electric rear sun blind. Auto dipping rear view mirror. Wood and leather steering wheel. Wood handbrake handle. Full leather sports seats. Harman Kardon speakers & sub. Navall 2 double din through 500w Kenwood amp. Fully chromed front grill.

19th May 2017, 08:22	#2
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Which clutch kit with which slave cylinder (LUK or Tazu all-metal) was fitted ? Any problems changing gears ? Pete

20th May 2017, 20:32	#8
Ravinder This is my second home Rover 75 saloon x2, Rover 75 Tourer x2, Rover 220 Coupe Turbo Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Kirkcaldy, Fife Posts: 9,036 Thanks: 2,278 Thanked 2,852 Times in 1,718 Posts	Glad it's fixed. When I got my clutch done, I don't think it was bled as my pedal was like yours. My friend kindly bled it for me and there was a lot of air in the system and the pedal is now a million times better. __________________ Wanted - Indian bride. Cash waiting. (All sorted - bargain) First name and forum name: Ravinder Rover 75 2.0 CDT Connoisseur SE 116 (160 remap) Royal Blue (JFM) This vehicle was the 50,481st 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 2,238th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,775 This vehicle was the 5,002nd 75 in Royal Blue (code: JFM) to be made out of 14,420 Royal Blue 75s