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18th May 2017, 21:25 | #1 |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 CDT Saloon Join Date: Sep 2008
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Clutch issue
Bit of advice needed guys.
Clutch replaced today along with slave and DMF. The latter was a second hand one with low mileage, but the clutch kit was new from DMGRS. Fitment went without a hitch, but once everything was back together, the pedal bite point is very, very low, although nice and light. So, I'd like your thoughts on whether you think bleeding the clutch will improve it, it needs a new master cylinder (still original at 142,000 miles) or something else.
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19th May 2017, 08:22 | #2 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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Which clutch kit with which slave cylinder (LUK or Tazu all-metal) was fitted ? Any problems changing gears ?
Pete |
19th May 2017, 18:41 | #3 |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 CDT Saloon Join Date: Sep 2008
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It's the kit supplied by DMGRS, so a Borg & Beck clutch and a Luk slave.
It changes gear fine but the clutch is fully engaged just off the carpet, so it's like a switch, off or on. Also noticed that the has no resistance for the top half of it's travel, only the return spring. Didn't get chance to bleed it today, but I will in the morning.
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Re-mapped. EGR bypass. De-catted. 18" Apex's. ZT190 brakes & suspension. Xenon projectors. Powerfold bullets. Electric rear sun blind. Auto dipping rear view mirror. Wood and leather steering wheel. Wood handbrake handle. Full leather sports seats. Harman Kardon speakers & sub. Navall 2 double din through 500w Kenwood amp. Fully chromed front grill. |
19th May 2017, 19:10 | #4 | |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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Quote:
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19th May 2017, 21:56 | #5 |
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This happened with mine. Not bled correctly and there's still air in the system. I used a vacuum bleeder and it was perfect afterwards.
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19th May 2017, 22:02 | #6 |
older not wiser
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While bleeding the clutch (through to quick connector first as suggested), may be worthwhile to remove and clean the pushrod and master cylinder as explained in post no.2 of this thread...
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...leeding+clutch There is a thread where French Mike has posted some useful pictures of the master, its location and its workings BUT I can't find it, sorry. Maybe someone else can oblige? Last edited by bigblue75; 19th May 2017 at 22:04.. Reason: Precision |
20th May 2017, 19:50 | #7 |
I really should get out more.......
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Update. Spent half an hour this afternoon bleeding it. First separated the connector and bled just the master cylinder, which gave up some very grey fluid. Reconnected the master to the slave and bled through the whole system until fully clear. Success! Pedal is now back to where it should be. That said, the state of the fluid that initially came out would suggest some degradation of the master so will probably need changing in the near future.
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Re-mapped. EGR bypass. De-catted. 18" Apex's. ZT190 brakes & suspension. Xenon projectors. Powerfold bullets. Electric rear sun blind. Auto dipping rear view mirror. Wood and leather steering wheel. Wood handbrake handle. Full leather sports seats. Harman Kardon speakers & sub. Navall 2 double din through 500w Kenwood amp. Fully chromed front grill. |
20th May 2017, 20:32 | #8 |
This is my second home
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Glad it's fixed. When I got my clutch done, I don't think it was bled as my pedal was like yours. My friend kindly bled it for me and there was a lot of air in the system and the pedal is now a million times better.
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20th May 2017, 21:06 | #9 | |
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Quote:
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20th May 2017, 21:11 | #10 | |
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Quote:
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=238272 http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=230625 Mike |
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