Intercooler O-ring Bend Modification

[Arctic]

Those of us whom own a Diesel R75/MG ZT know that our O-rings can and do blow spit out etc, and lead to a slugish performance and blowing smoke also the black oily mess it leaves behind once the O-rings have been blown out etc.

So after seeing quite a few at the last nano meet i decided to take a good look at the intercooler (bend) outlet pipe stub as we know it consists of being held in by a bolt ajoined to the radiator and is pushed into the intercooler housing at the bottom of the radiator, the bend as two o-ring fitted to it which gives it the seal once pushed home these fail so i was wondering for added security and a better seal why not add a third below you will see my findings.

This first photo shows i have cleaned the intercooler bend and you can see the space for the rings which is last when pushed into the cooler, next is another section with four plastic bridges the center part and then we have the end of the pipe where the first ring would and should sit.
Fig 1
1

I thought if i was to cut out the centre plastic bridge x 4 round the pipe it would enable me to add another ring so cut them out i did Fig 2
2

When cutting i made sure i only cut to the depth of the O-ring, i cut both sides of the bridges Fig 3
3

Once i had cut all four to the depth needed i then cut out the nib of plastic left with a stanley knife held at an angle Fig 4
4

When i had cut out all four i then used the edge of a file to smooth down any remains of the plastic bridge so the center looked identical to the first inset part of the intercooler pipe Fig 5
5

The pipe is now ready to have the O-rings fitted as you can see i use an hook for this Fig 6
6

First fit the last ring onto the bend making sure it is snug and only use Viton rings Fig 7
7

Next fit the now new centre O-ring where the plastic bridges have been cut out Fig 8
8

The next step is to fit the first O-ring which will be pushed into the intercooler and lies on a leadge inside the intercooler recess this is the first ring which as been know to swell and blow Fig 9
9

The intercooler pipe is now ready to be fitted hopefully giving a better seal than with two O-rings in place i have only modifed one which needs to be tested yet but i can not see why this should not work.
10

Maybe even if need be leave out the first O-ring leaving only the center and last O-ring which then the pipe should push in a little further i yet have to make sure and will report back cheers Arctic.
11

[Mark2000cc]

Looks good, can't see it not working tbh :-)

[T-Cut]

I've long argued that this double O-ring design is poor and that the outer one needs a supporting shoulder like the first one. No other system I've come across uses an O-ring without the proper lateral support. Though all diesels I've read about have had two rings (with the outer usually dropped off), The Xpart diagram states only a single ring is fitted. To me, that makes more sense than having a second floating ring that arguably, is unlikely to seal.

TC

[Arctic]

As a follow on to the triple intercooler o-ring modification i have recently undertaken a chance to do an update on how to fit the O-rings with out removing the bumper here it is below,a relaxing Sunday morning 20 minute job cheers Arctic.

Intercooler O-ring Change Without Removing The Bumper.
Tools you will need 8mm socket and a long flat blade screwdriver, some gloves and some rag we are now ready to start.

First remove the engine cover 3 8mm bolts Fig 1-2
1

2

Remove the cover and set it to one side safely with the bolts Fig 3
3

Next remove the 8mm bolt holding the coolant header tank to the fan cowling and put the bolt with the engine cover bolts try and keep every thing in one place less chance of losing them Fig 4
4

The next step is to loosen the jubilee clip attached to the EGR (CDT)Fig 5
5

With the jubille clip loosened you now lower the coolant header tank down and to the left, it as to lugs/pegs which fit into a bracket so easy Fig 6
6

The reason for lowering the header tank is it will give you more access to the 8mm bolt holding the intercooler bend to the side of the radiator shroud Fig 7
7

You can now remove the bolt with the socket Fig 8
8

You can now pull off the hose from the EGR which will need to be removed when you pull out the bend from the intercooler in the next process. Fig 9
9

With the hose released from EGR reach down and pull the hose upwards removing the bend from the intercooler Fig 10-11
10

11

With the hose and bend removed look down and you should see the stretched O-ring left behind Fig 12
12

Fish this out sometimes both o-rings can be left behing if the other one as swollen too Fig 13
13

With the O-rings removed clean out the recess in the intercooler wiping all oil traces away Fig 14
14

Now you need to remove the hose from the plastic bend and clean it remove the old O-ring if still attached and replace with the new viton O-rings you have purchased.

Now with the new O-rings attached to the bend and smeared with a little Vaseline/red rubber grease offer the bend back to the intercooler hole Fig 15
15

Make sure you hear a little thud when the bend is pushed home and that the fixing point is lined up with the bolt hole on the side off the radiator shroud Fig 16
16

Now you can copper grease the 8mm bolts thread and re-fit it securing the bend in place do not over tighten this bolts as yo can crack the plastic fixing point and it could snap later blowing the bend out of the intercooler believe me it can happen Fig 17
17

You are now ready to fit the hose back on the bend and EGR first make sure you have turned the jubilee clip round so the slotted end is facing up as opposed to side ways when you took it off. Fig 18
18

Push the hose onto the bend and the EGR and tighten the jubilee clip up Fig 19
19-20

20

Now tighten up the jubilee clip attached to the bend now you can see the reason for turning the clip round before, so you can tighten it from above on the right hand side below the head light remove the rubber cover from the back off the head light if you need to for more access Fig 21
21

Make sure it is tight Fig 22
22

You can now re-fit the coolant header tank locating the pegs into the fixing holes Fig 23
23

Fit the 8mm bolt again a little copper grease Fig 24
24

Header tank back in place all the is left is to fit the engine cover Fig 25-26
25

26

Job finished nice new tight viton O-rings Arctic :thumbsup

[Dragrad]

Once again Steve you astound with yet another wonderful How To

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by Arctic

As a follow on to the triple intercooler o-ring modification i have recently undertaken a chance to do an update on how to fit the O-rings with out removing the bumper here it is below,a relaxing Sunday morning 20 minute job cheers Arctic.

Intercooler O-ring Change Without Removing The Bumper.
Tools you will need 8mm socket and a long flat blade screwdriver, some gloves and some rag we are now ready to start.

:thumbsup

Exactly how I did it a few months ago and still going strong. I can confirm it was easy and less than 20 mins. Only difference was 2 rings not 3 but that was because they are supplied in pairs and my old ones were useless. Maybe Jules can start supply in 2's or 3's depending on which method people want to use.

[ChestersDad]

Brilliant Steve!

[Mr (Z) T]

I did this today but didn't remove the engine cover or coolant header tank.. judging by the state of the rings that were removed I am expecting a vast improvement!

One thing I have noticed about your car that is different to mine is the EGR valve, mine is not there it just has an electrical plug instead???

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Mr (Z) T

I did this today but didn't remove the engine cover or coolant header tank.. judging by the state of the rings that were removed I am expecting a vast improvement!

One thing I have noticed about your car that is different to mine is the EGR valve, mine is not there it just has an electrical plug instead???

Hi PJ
No EGR valve ? never seen or heard of that before could you pop a photo up for us to take a look please, or are you refering to the turbo boost sensor which as an electrical gong to it but is mid way fitted into the EGR pipe/intercooler pipe.

PS Those whom do have this pipe can disconnect the at this joint if you are changing the O-rings as opposed to the EGR Arctic

[peckster123]

this site still amazes me with the how to do il tackle this my weekend brill instructions thanks again oppps and pics