Timing belt short-cut ....

chipsceola · 14th May 2015, 21:01

as seen on Car SOS - cut the old belt along it's length forming 2 separate belts, remove the front half, fit new belt sliding into position, cut remains of old belt across width and remove, finally push new belt all the way on, and job done.

No need to reset timing or use special tools

stevestrat · 14th May 2015, 21:07

On the Skyline, saw that last week. Looks too simple, got to be a catch somewhere!

Vanbursta · 14th May 2015, 21:08

Nope, had it done and it worked perfectly, of course you don't get the new tensioner or waterpump etc, but it does work.

murphyv310 · 14th May 2015, 21:11

No catch at all.
Did it years ago with a Subaru Legacy.
Ok on cars that don't have a cam belt driven water pump, or those with a cheapo tensioner.

chiron_myth · 14th May 2015, 21:13

I've heard of a few people doing this - it was done on my wife's car (K-Series engine) and it's still going strong 3 years later. Like has been said above though - the tensioner and water pump don't get changed so it's likely that they'll need to be changed sooner than otherwise needed.

marinabrian · 14th May 2015, 21:27

Nice to hear bodgery is still king

Not a good idea if you wish to set the belt tension correctly

This is without the risk of damaging the pulleys with a Stanley knife, or indeed damaging the new belt leading it onto the pulleys under full tension.

Right up there with people who wind alternator belts on by turning the crankshaft pulley.

Do the job right, or not at all

Brian

rich17865 · 14th May 2015, 21:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Nice to hear bodgery is still king

Not a good idea if you wish to set the belt tension correctly

This is without the risk of damaging the pulleys with a Stanley knife, or indeed damaging the new belt leading it onto the pulleys under full tension.

Right up there with people who wind alternator belts on by turning the crankshaft pulley.

Do the job right, or not at all

Brian

When I changed my turbo recently, I had to unbolt the aircon pump to get the oil feed pipe out.

I didn't remove the belt!

It was getting on for midnight, is that a good enough excuse?

I do agree though, why change the cam belt and not the tensioner?!?

Freebyrd · 14th May 2015, 21:39

Did just that on my SD1 2.6 many years ago.

BigRuss · 14th May 2015, 21:43

As Brian says above not a good idea at all

Far easier if you want a shortcut is get mark the pulleys with paint marks count the number of teeth between the various pulleys on the old belt and then mark up the new belt and fit so all the marks line up.

But the tensioner must be retracted whilst putting the new belt on and then released once it's fitted.

The smaller belts on the V6 can only be changed by locking the cams, as the belts can only be changed by removal of the pulleys

The belts on our cars do not spontaneously break on their own no matter what age or mileage they've done

Belt breakage in almost all cases has been caused by the tensioner, idler wheel, water pump or covers interfering with the belt.

Russ

RogerHeinz57 · 14th May 2015, 22:39

Always nice to know the pulleys are checked and cleaned as well.
Makes for a proper bodge up as Brian said !

Never mind it's really up to you guys what you do, but I would rather see or do the job done correctly.

14th May 2015, 21:01	#1
chipsceola This is my second home Jaguar XF 3.0D Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Southampton Posts: 4,364 Thanks: 119 Thanked 509 Times in 426 Posts	Timing belt short-cut .... as seen on Car SOS - cut the old belt along it's length forming 2 separate belts, remove the front half, fit new belt sliding into position, cut remains of old belt across width and remove, finally push new belt all the way on, and job done. No need to reset timing or use special tools __________________ Chips

14th May 2015, 21:07	#2
stevestrat This is my second home ZT260 #243 (resting) Join Date: May 2010 Location: Prestonpans Posts: 22,562 Thanks: 650 Thanked 4,624 Times in 3,358 Posts	On the Skyline, saw that last week. Looks too simple, got to be a catch somewhere! __________________ Steve T4 Location Map

14th May 2015, 21:08	#3
Vanbursta Posted a thing or two Rover 75 2.0 V6 Conn Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Stainton Grove Posts: 1,637 Thanks: 266 Thanked 406 Times in 257 Posts	Nope, had it done and it worked perfectly, of course you don't get the new tensioner or waterpump etc, but it does work. __________________ I am NOT a number, I am 75

14th May 2015, 21:11	#4
murphyv310 This is my second home Hyundai i10 998cc Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Kilmarnock Posts: 6,602 Thanks: 2,088 Thanked 2,298 Times in 1,349 Posts	No catch at all. Did it years ago with a Subaru Legacy. Ok on cars that don't have a cam belt driven water pump, or those with a cheapo tensioner. __________________ Cheers from Trevor MM0KJJ

14th May 2015, 21:13	#5
chiron_myth Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Shifnal Posts: 422 Thanks: 57 Thanked 80 Times in 66 Posts	I've heard of a few people doing this - it was done on my wife's car (K-Series engine) and it's still going strong 3 years later. Like has been said above though - the tensioner and water pump don't get changed so it's likely that they'll need to be changed sooner than otherwise needed. __________________ Done so far... loads. Special thanks to Arctic, Lord_Skyrunner John_H, Holland314, JamieWelch and Drewski for their help so far. Left to do... loads!!!

14th May 2015, 21:27	#6
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	Nice to hear bodgery is still king Not a good idea if you wish to set the belt tension correctly This is without the risk of damaging the pulleys with a Stanley knife, or indeed damaging the new belt leading it onto the pulleys under full tension. Right up there with people who wind alternator belts on by turning the crankshaft pulley. Do the job right, or not at all Brian

14th May 2015, 21:39	#8
Freebyrd Posted a thing or two MG ZT-T Join Date: May 2010 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 1,667 Thanks: 992 Thanked 384 Times in 277 Posts	Did just that on my SD1 2.6 many years ago.

14th May 2015, 21:43	#9
BigRuss Premium Trader 75 CDT Tourer,2.5 Launch Saloon, Omipro MG/Rover (T4) Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Liversedge, West Yorkshire Posts: 5,411 Thanks: 1,105 Thanked 1,340 Times in 661 Posts	As Brian says above not a good idea at all Far easier if you want a shortcut is get mark the pulleys with paint marks count the number of teeth between the various pulleys on the old belt and then mark up the new belt and fit so all the marks line up. But the tensioner must be retracted whilst putting the new belt on and then released once it's fitted. The smaller belts on the V6 can only be changed by locking the cams, as the belts can only be changed by removal of the pulleys The belts on our cars do not spontaneously break on their own no matter what age or mileage they've done Belt breakage in almost all cases has been caused by the tensioner, idler wheel, water pump or covers interfering with the belt. Russ __________________ Replacement Key Service http://https://the75andztclub.co.uk/...d.php?t=244732 Full T4 Testbook diagnostics available. Diesel ECU repair and replacement. Options enabled or disabled as required. Diesel X-Power 135 and 160bhp, Rover 1.8T 150 to 160 MG 160 V6 to 177 upgrades available P.M. for details.

14th May 2015, 22:39	#10
RogerHeinz57 I really should get out more....... A Reasonably Priced Car Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Burton Latimer Posts: 2,530 Thanks: 408 Thanked 1,064 Times in 712 Posts	Always nice to know the pulleys are checked and cleaned as well. Makes for a proper bodge up as Brian said ! Never mind it's really up to you guys what you do, but I would rather see or do the job done correctly.