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Old 6th August 2015, 09:19   #1
v-man
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Arrow Unstable/fluctuating idle - K-Series

After my recent issue with camshaft sensor - http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru....php?t=220552m - I thought my 1.8 45 (not 75) would present no more issues for a while. Seems I was wrong as on Tuesday driving to work the engine was idling at approx 2000 rpm, I did stop and restart but it was the same. However the drive home was different, it still wasn't idling at the correct speed, but it wasn't as high as in the morning. When I reached my garage and the engine warm the idle speed was fluctuating by approx 300 rpm, dipping down to 750 or so (almost cutting out) and then picking back up to 1050, then down again and so on.

Haven't driven it since, just in case it got worse.

There are no stored error codes, according to Torque app.

Am I correct in thinking the idle air control valve is the culprit?

Thanks for reading.
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Old 6th August 2015, 09:34   #2
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Ian, try resetting the iacv by turning the ignition on but don't start the engine, then press the throttle 5 times quickly, turn off then restart the car. Might help.
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Old 6th August 2015, 09:56   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzublu View Post
Ian, try resetting the iacv by turning the ignition on but don't start the engine, then press the throttle 5 times quickly, turn off then restart the car. Might help.
Thanks Ronnie, have tried that already. Though I think that is the procedure to reset the throttle position sensor.
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Old 6th August 2015, 11:54   #4
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Check for inlet manifold leaks/ connecting pipes loose/perished etc.
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Old 6th August 2015, 13:52   #5
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Has anyone ever adjusted (turned) the throttle position screw on the throttle body ?
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Old 6th August 2015, 20:12   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pletevl View Post
Has anyone ever adjusted (turned) the throttle position screw on the throttle body ?
If its the screw I am thinking about it adjusts the stepper motor and should be done while connected to a T4 to monitor idle speed etc.
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Old 6th August 2015, 20:41   #7
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With engine at running temperature, spray some brake cleaner about all the inlet seals / joints first. For those not in the know, this should tell if there is an air leak caused by a failed sealing joint, the engine would change running when you spray near the culprit , OBD won't find this out.
Start with basic stuff that costs pence to try out before spending £ at a garage who will probably have your trousers down ££££££££.
Also fiddling with base settings on throttle housing wont effect a proper fix, unless the engine has been running like this for a while with a replaced body fitted.
The skills needed are basic on this and should be easy to practice to find the problem, then effect a proper repair from a proper diagnosis.

Last edited by RogerHeinz57; 6th August 2015 at 20:45.. Reason: Needed to edit.
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Old 7th August 2015, 09:27   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevestrat View Post
If its the screw I am thinking about it adjusts the stepper motor and should be done while connected to a T4 to monitor idle speed etc.
Exactley, this is why I asked, my ZR went in to my local MG Rover garage (in 2004) because of bad engine vibrations with the aircon on. They started playing around with this screw to try to up the idle speed.

A couple of days later, the car would idle eraticaly, reving up and down on its own in neutral at junctions etc.

Took it to another garage who set it back up on T4 properly.

Pete.
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Old 15th August 2015, 13:18   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevestrat View Post
If its the screw I am thinking about it adjusts the stepper motor and should be done while connected to a T4 to monitor idle speed etc.
I know better than to mess with that screw and yes you are correct a T4 session is needed to set it correctly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
Check for inlet manifold leaks/ connecting pipes loose/perished etc.
Thanks for the tip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by John H View Post
With engine at running temperature, spray some brake cleaner about all the inlet seals / joints first. For those not in the know, this should tell if there is an air leak caused by a failed sealing joint, the engine would change running when you spray near the culprit , OBD won't find this out.
Start with basic stuff that costs pence to try out before spending £ at a garage who will probably have your trousers down ££££££££.
Also fiddling with base settings on throttle housing wont effect a proper fix, unless the engine has been running like this for a while with a replaced body fitted.
The skills needed are basic on this and should be easy to practice to find the problem, then effect a proper repair from a proper diagnosis.
Thanks John for the wise words.

Now quick update: Having not used the car since my last post I went around my rented garage today to see what I could find. Started up as normal, no sign of weirdness. Left it idling while I checked the tyre pressures, still ok. Had a quick check around the pipes and wiring, couldn't see anything. Oiled the exposed end of the throttle cable, took off the air filter and multiple times sprayed some Wynns carb/injector cleaner into the pipe leading to the throttle body, it was definately going through as it was clearly affecting the engine rpm, indeed at one point I did stall it. Put the air filter back and went for a quick 10 mile drive, no issue at all. Wondering if the ambient temperature being cooler today is masking a sensor issue, which manifests when hot.
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Old 15th August 2015, 18:13   #10
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I had a similar issue with my zr, turned out to be a faulty throttle position sensor.
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