IPK Issue - Someones been in here before...

ZedTeeTee · 27th April 2011, 17:43

Decided to strip my IPK down to see if I could repair the issue with the trip meter (not displaying fully from cold / first use).

So I removed the IPK and started to strip it apart, as I did I noticed that the sticker had been damaged, so I knew it had been open before. Delving deeper, and stripping it to the pcb, I find the following:

The leds concerned are for the Oil Pressure, ABS and Airbag lights.

Now - the tracks on the pcb have been cut, and these wires fed around so someone who has done it, has known what they are doing, but my questions are why, and is this dangerous / misleading? Has this been done to repair a fault , or to hide a problem?

The car runs fine, and having just had a T4 session, the airbag circuit (?) was tested and no faults found (though an old fault was cleared if I remember correctly). I did a quick test of the ABS and that is also working (again during the T4 I am sure a fault was cleared for that too). After the T4 no faults came back or could not be cleared (except for my FBH but thats another story and a job for different day). The lights come on when the ignition is started and go off when the engine is started, the airbag light also came on during the T4 session when it was tested.

I'd like to know what people think - as a side note I think I have fixed the original issue, I resoldered the led that was intermittent and it seems to be working fine now. Apart from snapping one of the needles when refitting, it was stripped and put back together quick easily so not a huge job - apart from getting the needles back to the right places.

marinabrian · 27th April 2011, 17:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mofo

Decided to strip my IPK down to see if I could repair the issue with the trip meter (not displaying fully from cold / first use).

So I removed the IPK and started to strip it apart, as I did I noticed that the sticker had been damaged, so I knew it had been open before. Delving deeper, and stripping it to the pcb, I find the following:

The leds concerned are for the Oil Pressure, ABS and Airbag lights.

Now - the tracks on the pcb have been cut, and these wires fed around so someone who has done it, has known what they are doing, but my questions are why, and is this dangerous / misleading? Has this been done to repair a fault , or to hide a problem?

The car runs fine, and having just had a T4 session, the airbag circuit (?) was tested and no faults found (though an old fault was cleared if I remember correctly). I did a quick test of the ABS and that is also working (again during the T4 I am sure a fault was cleared for that too). After the T4 no faults came back or could not be cleared (except for my FBH but thats another story and a job for different day). The lights come on when the ignition is started and go off when the engine is started, the airbag light also came on during the T4 session when it was tested.

I'd like to know what people think - as a side note I think I have fixed the original issue, I resoldered the led that was intermittent and it seems to be working fine now. Apart from snapping one of the needles when refitting, it was stripped and put back together quick easily so not a huge job - apart from getting the needles back to the right places.

Chris, this may be of interest...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...#ht_499wt_1159
As to the needles, power up the IPK with the needles off, and the stepper motors will be at the zero position, then fit the needles.

Brian.

stocktake · 27th April 2011, 17:52

Looking at how they are wired, they are all wired up in parallel to one circuit. My guess, ( and only that ) is the car has had problems with ABS and airbag lights so they have piggy backed those two warning lights on to a known good circuit (oil pressure) to give the impression the lights come on and go out as they should.

Bit naughty really

Phil-T4 · 27th April 2011, 18:13

Yep its so they come on with the oil pressure light and go off at the same time when the engine is running.

On my cluster the EML led's had been broken off at some point to hide the fact it had a fault!

HarryM1BYT · 27th April 2011, 18:31

Someone was pretty desperate to get it through an MOT. Thing is, the ABS light should come on and stay on, once on the rolling road.

ZedTeeTee · 27th April 2011, 18:41

So - given that the T4 found and cleared some old faults, could they have been the reason for this apparent bypass? Rather than pay for a T4 session to clear it, it's been wired?

Obviously I'm not happy with it, so, I think the best option would be to replace the IPK and have the replacement paired with the car via T4 (if I understand correctly what is required).

Time to pop back out to the scrapyard / search e-bay.......

Phil-T4 · 27th April 2011, 19:31

See if you can find a message centre one, i can send Brian the "new" eeprom data for the CDT so it doesnt matter if you find a petrol or diesel one he will be able to convert it for you

Phil-T4 · 27th April 2011, 19:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mofo

So - given that the T4 found and cleared some old faults, could they have been the reason for this apparent bypass? Rather than pay for a T4 session to clear it, it's been wired?

Obviously I'm not happy with it, so, I think the best option would be to replace the IPK and have the replacement paired with the car via T4 (if I understand correctly what is required).

Time to pop back out to the scrapyard / search e-bay.......

Ohhh Rimmer Bros are doing new KMH Diesel with trip for £52 delivered, get one of those and do the dial swap on it.

HarryM1BYT · 27th April 2011, 20:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mofo

So - given that the T4 found and cleared some old faults, could they have been the reason for this apparent bypass? Rather than pay for a T4 session to clear it, it's been wired?

Obviously I'm not happy with it, so, I think the best option would be to replace the IPK and have the replacement paired with the car via T4 (if I understand correctly what is required).

Time to pop back out to the scrapyard / search e-bay.......

No reason why that PCB that you have, could not be restored back to normal function - by the look of it.

ZedTeeTee · 27th April 2011, 21:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil-T4

Ohhh Rimmer Bros are doing new KMH Diesel with trip for £52 delivered, get one of those and do the dial swap on it.

So it is ok to, effectively, retrofit a IPK with trip computer in? I just happen to know the one I have seen in the scrappy has the IPK and Trip stalk still fitted, is a diesel and is therefore my best bet. All that would remain would be to pair it with my car? Currently I have the standard IPK with no trip stalk etc.

If I can get it tomorrow, I have a T4 session with Brian lined up for Friday, so the timing would be perfect.

Failing that, I also have the opion of buying the reduced IPKs from Rimmerbros, and simply swapping over my dial inlays, and then reprogramming / pairing to the car, or, repairing the damage done on my existing one - which may be beyond my limited soldering abilities.

27th April 2011, 17:43	#1
ZedTeeTee This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stanley Posts: 3,334 Thanks: 240 Thanked 303 Times in 172 Posts	IPK Issue - Someones been in here before... Decided to strip my IPK down to see if I could repair the issue with the trip meter (not displaying fully from cold / first use). So I removed the IPK and started to strip it apart, as I did I noticed that the sticker had been damaged, so I knew it had been open before. Delving deeper, and stripping it to the pcb, I find the following: The leds concerned are for the Oil Pressure, ABS and Airbag lights. Now - the tracks on the pcb have been cut, and these wires fed around so someone who has done it, has known what they are doing, but my questions are why, and is this dangerous / misleading? Has this been done to repair a fault , or to hide a problem? The car runs fine, and having just had a T4 session, the airbag circuit (?) was tested and no faults found (though an old fault was cleared if I remember correctly). I did a quick test of the ABS and that is also working (again during the T4 I am sure a fault was cleared for that too). After the T4 no faults came back or could not be cleared (except for my FBH but thats another story and a job for different day). The lights come on when the ignition is started and go off when the engine is started, the airbag light also came on during the T4 session when it was tested. I'd like to know what people think - as a side note I think I have fixed the original issue, I resoldered the led that was intermittent and it seems to be working fine now. Apart from snapping one of the needles when refitting, it was stripped and put back together quick easily so not a huge job - apart from getting the needles back to the right places.

27th April 2011, 17:52	#3
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,591 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	Looking at how they are wired, they are all wired up in parallel to one circuit. My guess, ( and only that ) is the car has had problems with ABS and airbag lights so they have piggy backed those two warning lights on to a known good circuit (oil pressure) to give the impression the lights come on and go out as they should. Bit naughty really __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident Last edited by stocktake; 27th April 2011 at 18:34..

27th April 2011, 18:31	#5
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	Someone was pretty desperate to get it through an MOT. Thing is, the ABS light should come on and stay on, once on the rolling road. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

27th April 2011, 18:13	#4
Phil-T4 I really should get out more....... MG ZT-T, Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Olney Posts: 2,969 Thanks: 245 Thanked 1,088 Times in 657 Posts	Yep its so they come on with the oil pressure light and go off at the same time when the engine is running. On my cluster the EML led's had been broken off at some point to hide the fact it had a fault!

27th April 2011, 18:41	#6
ZedTeeTee This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stanley Posts: 3,334 Thanks: 240 Thanked 303 Times in 172 Posts	So - given that the T4 found and cleared some old faults, could they have been the reason for this apparent bypass? Rather than pay for a T4 session to clear it, it's been wired? Obviously I'm not happy with it, so, I think the best option would be to replace the IPK and have the replacement paired with the car via T4 (if I understand correctly what is required). Time to pop back out to the scrapyard / search e-bay.......

27th April 2011, 19:31	#7
Phil-T4 I really should get out more....... MG ZT-T, Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Olney Posts: 2,969 Thanks: 245 Thanked 1,088 Times in 657 Posts	See if you can find a message centre one, i can send Brian the "new" eeprom data for the CDT so it doesnt matter if you find a petrol or diesel one he will be able to convert it for you