I am completely baffled!? Powerfold Issue Help - Page 2

BigRuss · 10th May 2017, 22:51

I'd remove the "earth" wire from the led lights that are fitted

I've lost count of the times I've come across extras that have been fitted have caused problems. You can't always add stuff where you think, adding an earth or taking power from a circuit can cause a whole host of problems !

Russ

Geoff130 · 10th May 2017, 23:02

When you say they work off a battery is that just to the motors or through a switch pack. Like the rear sunblind the switch packs rely on current sensing to tell when to stop the motor. If it's drawing too much current the switch will think it's at the end of it's travel and switch off but direct connection to a battery will move it ok.

klarzy · 11th May 2017, 10:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRuss

I'd remove the "earth" wire from the led lights that are fitted

I've lost count of the times I've come across extras that have been fitted have caused problems. You can't always add stuff where you think, adding an earth or taking power from a circuit can cause a whole host of problems !

Russ

IIRC Russ the power for the marmite mood lighting in the doors was taken from the switch pack...

BigRuss · 11th May 2017, 11:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by klarzy

IIRC Russ the power for the marmite mood lighting in the doors was taken from the switch pack...

Exactly and that's where I'd start

Russ

Rick-sta · 11th May 2017, 21:07

I'd already tried disconnecting the led light in the door card and it wasn't that, didn't think it would be anyway as I have the same set up in my ZT which also has powerfolds which work fine

Finally found what the problem was today. I used a spare white plug I have for the driver's window switches and wired it directly to the battery in order to test it and the powerfolds worked fine with the switch. Which mean't the fault lied somewhere in the car side of the wiring loom, and not on the door.

Looking at the diagrams there are 2 12v feeds which go into the driver's window switches, the green white to pin 3, and the orange green wire to pin 6. Turns out the orange and green wire is there to only power the powerfolds (whereas I thought it powered other things too), which I thought was a bit odd that they included the 12v powerfold wiring in the standard loom but didn't include the rest of it which goes to the mirrors.

So to test if there's any power coming through the wire I connected up an LED bulb to the orange/green wire for the powerfolds and found no power. However whilst checking the wires I noticed that if I move the wires going into the door loom plug on the car side, the bulb would come on.

Well I ended up taking the door off to get to the plug properly, and after unplugging it this is what I found.

The pin inside the plug for the powerfolds had burnt and come off completely. This explains why Dennis (the owner) kept finding that the powerfolds would stop working and then start working again later.

I've now bypassed the plug and wired the two ends directly and everything is working fine.

No idea why it's done that. Nothing extra has been wired to the orange/green wiring for the powerfolds. The only extra thing added is 1 tiny led in the door card which is part of the sidelight circuit (red/white wire).

But all sorted now, after many hours trying to track down the fault. wasn't willing to let it beat me

spent about 4-5 hours on it over about 3 days though!

klarzy · 11th May 2017, 21:39

I do remember Dennis saying it kept blowing fuses...
Perhaps this burned pin is the result of an over rated fuse being used ????

Be careful that the system is still not in overload for some reason and I would make sure the fuse is the correct rating for safety... don't want her getting too hot...

Rick-sta · 11th May 2017, 21:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by klarzy

I do remember Dennis saying it kept blowing fuses...
Perhaps this burned pin is the result of an over rated fuse being used ????

Be careful that the system is still not in overload for some reason and I would make sure the fuse is the correct rating for safety... don't want her getting too hot...

It did have the wrong fuse in it, according to my Rave diagram the Green/Orange wire comes from fuse slot 34 and that is suppose to have a 5amp fuse in it, but when I checked it had a 10 amp fuse. So have swapped it for a 5amp now. May be the reason for it

10th May 2017, 22:51	#11
BigRuss Premium Trader 75 CDT Tourer,2.5 Launch Saloon, Omipro MG/Rover (T4) Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Liversedge, West Yorkshire Posts: 5,405 Thanks: 1,105 Thanked 1,340 Times in 661 Posts	I'd remove the "earth" wire from the led lights that are fitted I've lost count of the times I've come across extras that have been fitted have caused problems. You can't always add stuff where you think, adding an earth or taking power from a circuit can cause a whole host of problems ! Russ __________________ Replacement Key Service http://https://the75andztclub.co.uk/...d.php?t=244732 Full T4 Testbook diagnostics available. Diesel ECU repair and replacement. Options enabled or disabled as required. Diesel X-Power 135 and 160bhp, Rover 1.8T 150 to 160 MG 160 V6 to 177 upgrades available P.M. for details.

11th May 2017, 21:07	#15
Rick-sta This is my second home MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Norfolk Posts: 7,534 Thanks: 2,718 Thanked 2,827 Times in 1,462 Posts	solved I'd already tried disconnecting the led light in the door card and it wasn't that, didn't think it would be anyway as I have the same set up in my ZT which also has powerfolds which work fine Finally found what the problem was today. I used a spare white plug I have for the driver's window switches and wired it directly to the battery in order to test it and the powerfolds worked fine with the switch. Which mean't the fault lied somewhere in the car side of the wiring loom, and not on the door. Looking at the diagrams there are 2 12v feeds which go into the driver's window switches, the green white to pin 3, and the orange green wire to pin 6. Turns out the orange and green wire is there to only power the powerfolds (whereas I thought it powered other things too), which I thought was a bit odd that they included the 12v powerfold wiring in the standard loom but didn't include the rest of it which goes to the mirrors. So to test if there's any power coming through the wire I connected up an LED bulb to the orange/green wire for the powerfolds and found no power. However whilst checking the wires I noticed that if I move the wires going into the door loom plug on the car side, the bulb would come on. Well I ended up taking the door off to get to the plug properly, and after unplugging it this is what I found. The pin inside the plug for the powerfolds had burnt and come off completely. This explains why Dennis (the owner) kept finding that the powerfolds would stop working and then start working again later. I've now bypassed the plug and wired the two ends directly and everything is working fine. No idea why it's done that. Nothing extra has been wired to the orange/green wiring for the powerfolds. The only extra thing added is 1 tiny led in the door card which is part of the sidelight circuit (red/white wire). But all sorted now, after many hours trying to track down the fault. wasn't willing to let it beat me spent about 4-5 hours on it over about 3 days though! __________________ How to retrofit Cruise Control on a diesel with no OEM wiring in place: Link How to retrofit heated electric memory seats with no OEM wiring in place: Link How to operate FBH and ATC via text Link How to restore cloudy projector headlights Link Last edited by Rick-sta; 11th May 2017 at 21:54..

11th May 2017, 21:39	#16
klarzy This is my second home none but not gone Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: March, Cambs Posts: 16,437 Thanks: 894 Thanked 4,247 Times in 3,025 Posts	I do remember Dennis saying it kept blowing fuses... Perhaps this burned pin is the result of an over rated fuse being used ???? Be careful that the system is still not in overload for some reason and I would make sure the fuse is the correct rating for safety... don't want her getting too hot... __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]….All praise Bananaswan….

10th May 2017, 23:02	#12
Geoff130 Loves to post MG ZT 190, Rover 75 CDTi, Honda VFR 750, Honda CB550F Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Derby Posts: 393 Thanks: 75 Thanked 36 Times in 28 Posts	When you say they work off a battery is that just to the motors or through a switch pack. Like the rear sunblind the switch packs rely on current sensing to tell when to stop the motor. If it's drawing too much current the switch will think it's at the end of it's travel and switch off but direct connection to a battery will move it ok.