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15th February 2021, 21:18 | #91 | |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
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I left the battery charging again until the 7th light came on and noticed the voltage had dropped in trickle mode to around 13.4. (On position 6 it was at 15.45 which quite surprised me.) I'm pretty sure the battery is good but will check again tomorrow. While disconnected from power I did manual door checks as follows. Rear doors, push buttons down, doors lock. Pull door handles inside (once) they unlock. Pull outside they remain locked. Conclusion normal manual operation? Front passenger door, same as rear on manual, so also normal? Driver's door is an issue on manual. If I lock the door (anticlockwise) with the key and take the key out, then the inside handle won't open the door from inside the car. However, if I lock the door with the key and leave it in, then two pulls of the inside handle opens the door. Now the door will open and close using the outside handle with the key left (stuck) in the barrel. To free the trapped key I must manually re-lock from the outside. Then I can't manually unlock from outside or inside. Next I locked the driver door from the outside to get the key fob free (for the alarm), and locked all the other doors. Connected the battery, no alarm sounded! Took the negative lead off the battery and alarm went off. Re-connected the battery and used the fob to silence the alarm. Pressed the fob button to unlock and lock several times. The rear door buttons unlocked and locked normally. There was a single beep on locking with the fob every time which I suspect was the open bonnet. Front passenger door button was totally inactive. The driver's door did react up and down, but the door didn't unlock, unless I put they key in and gave a manual assist on opening. The only way to open the driver's door from outside is with the key fob and the key working wirelessly and manually in sync. I'm thinking a bad connection or failed solenoid in the front passenger door. Clueless about the driver door. (Both door cards are off) A torch and mirror examination didn't show anything apparently broken. When the key turns, I see a small drive shaft turn with no slippage at the key end, but can't see what happens at the other end. I feel the driver side is very close to working normally. The button amplitude/range appears to be less than it should be. AC 90 lubricant definitely improved things, but it wasn't enough Last edited by edwardmk; 15th February 2021 at 21:24.. Reason: typo |
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16th February 2021, 07:48 | #92 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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Did you have the reconditioning option activated? You should be using the normal charging mode.
That's not a normal procedure Martin so it's perhaps not surprising that you're getting unexpected results. Either use the key blade manually and withdraw it from the lock before operating any handles or use the remote control buttons but not both! Quote:
Simon
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16th February 2021, 11:18 | #93 | |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
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Martin |
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16th February 2021, 19:44 | #94 | |
This is my second home
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16th February 2021, 20:16 | #95 |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
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Absolutely Jon. Somehow I missed reading it , so much appreciate your following up with this information.
I didn't realise the monitor window was only on one cell. That explains a lot of my observations and frustrations over the years with many batteries. The old ZT-T battery has now recovered to about 11.8 volts, but I know it's got a problem, and one duff cell down on capacity would explain that. I'm confident if presented with a load the voltage would rapidly collapse! Just got an interesting e-mail from Halfords. If I return the old battery to the store, I'll get a £10 discount voucher on my next purchase. Must read the small print lol. |
19th February 2021, 12:10 | #96 |
This is my second home
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You're not going to believe this...
The exact thing has just happened to me. Yesterday I had the ignition on for about 10 mins whilst I was doing a few bits around the car and then when I went to start the car it just kept clicking as the battery had drained too low. All other electrics worked fine. As it was late I locked the car up and planned to remove the battery and put it on trickle charge today. Have tried to unlock the door with the fob and it isn't unlocking and I can't open the driver's door with the key! The driver's door lock definitely works, I've only used it recently. I only just put a new battery on Redfive in August last year. I seem to have the exact problem you had. My fob isn't doing anything and for some reason I cannot open the driver's door with the key, even though that usually opens the driver's door even when there isn't a battery fitted to the car. |
19th February 2021, 14:34 | #97 | |
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Very sorry to hear that Rick. That at least makes me feel I'm not going crazy. I've got both door cards off and am going over everything on the locks, but so far can't see anything obviously wrong. I'm planning some tests with a fully charged battery later on this weekend and will post reports, but I was so grateful to get back into the car without having to go through the awkward 'feel for the bonnet cable' technique. She's in the garage now with the doors open and the battery disconnected just in case the random battery drain destroys another new battery while I'm not looking |
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19th February 2021, 15:05 | #98 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black Join Date: Oct 2012
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Had to put jump leads on the starter motor and slam panel from underneath and connected to my spare battery and the car powered up straight away. As soon as I had power the hazard lights were flashing as the alarm was going off but no sound from my BBUS unit as it's dead (got a replacement one on it's way at the moment). So seems like the alarm must have been going off which must have drained the battery to completely dead (the battery voltage dropping below a certain level must have set the alarm off at some point over night), but I checked through my security camera footage and the hazard lights weren't flashing at any point during the night. Immediately after connecting the jump leads and having power to the car I was able to unlock it with the fob. All doors unlocked fine. And was now able to unlock the car using the key in the driver's door as well. Had the jump leads on for about 5 minutes and then as soon as I disconnected them all power completely died, so the battery must have been completely drained. I've fitted the spare battery for the moment which unlocks the car and starts it fine, the other battery is currently on trickle charge and will test it once it's fully charged. The battery had only been on the car since August last year. I had noticed recently on a few occasions over the last week on the first start up of the day the car would turn over a bit slowly, but then on other days it would fire up fine. Maybe due to the lack of longer journeys, but it has had a couple good runs recently. Have you tried connecting a known good battery to the ZTT? I think the problem with you not being able to unlock certain doors may be due to the battery being no good? The battery fitted to your ZTT was this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-...72.m2749.l2649 I've used these for about 7 or 8 years now. The last two I bought have been for your ZTT and redfive. Although I've not had any problem with these batteries until now, I'm wondering if they're not as good quality as the ones I'd bought from the seller previously? Just because we both have had the same problem and both have the same battery model fitted. Also, does anyone know, if I lock the car with the fob so that it's alarmed and the alarm then goes off, does this prevent me from being able to unlock the car using the key in the door? So the only way to now unlock the car is by using the fob to disable the alarm? is this some sort of security feature? |
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19th February 2021, 15:17 | #99 |
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Why not try it?
Leave the drivers window open, bonnet open and put a weight on the bonnet switch. then lock the car with the fob, stick your arm into the car and set the volumetric alarm off. Disconnect the battery on the car ( to simulate flat battery and then try to unlock with the key or leave battery connected and try to open with key.
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19th February 2021, 15:22 | #100 | |
This is my second home
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